Black Hills

Updated October 2023 to add new content at the end of the blog from our return visit.

The Black Hills of South Dakota, where the granite hills glisten, the Buffalo roam the prairies and where man made creations compete in magnificence with natures creations.

There is so much diversity in things to see and do in the vast area encompassing the Black Hills. In an effort to simplify and make this more informative, I will segment this post into the Northern and Southern sections of the Black Hills, roughly divided by Rapid City as the center point. It makes sense to set up camp separately in both sections, as we did, to take full advantage of the areas.

SOUTHERN BLACK HILLS We set up camp at Custer’s Gulch RV park, which put us conveniently located in-between the town of Custer and the entrance to Custer State Park and right off the path of the South Dakota Centennial Trail, a 111 mile paved hike and bike path. We had over two weeks there, so more than enough time to see and do everything we wanted to.

Custer, SD:

We really fell in love with the town of Custer. It’s a small town with a great vibe, a little bit of everything and always something going on. There was a parade down Main street one day and an amazing car show one weekend with over 120 entries. We also watched a live band at one of the outdoor venues in town. What surprised us the most about Custer was the amazing food. Our “must try” list includes:

• Black Hills Burger and Bun Company: A burger like you have never experienced, from their creative menu.
• Begging Burro Mexican Bistro: It’s tough traveling away from Texas when you’re Mexican food snobs like us. This was worthy of a second visit.
• Baker’s Bakery & Cafe: They’re known for their cinnamon rolls and breakfast burrito. No, I didn’t eat both! Well, not on the same day anyway.
• Horatio’s Homemade Ice Cream: This will ruin you for store bought ice cream forever. Check their schedule, because they have odd hours, and you will want to go back for seconds.
• HJEM A.M.: A spin off of a five-star restaurant in town specializing in gourmet breakfasts. This is not IHOP! There are items you would never imagine for breakfast and you will experience taste buds you never knew you had.

There are also a great variety of local bars in Custer, from old west saloons to quaint little tasting rooms. Late one afternoon we decided to have a drink in town… a drink at each bar that is. We started down one side of the street and doubled back on the other side. I lost count somewhere around nine, but there could have been more. So, all in the spirit of research, here’s how we rate the bars in town in order of our preference:

1. Denial South Dakota: Cozy little wine and beer tasting room with a nice private back patio, for your comfortable tastings and/or cigar smoking pleasures. Great people and nice artifacts for sale.
2. Custer Beacon: The happening spot in town for tourist and locals alike. Inside stage and regular band performances.
3. Mt. Rushmore Brewing Company: Huge local brewery with bar and outside event center. Food is available at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant.
4. Old Pine Social: Throwing axes and drinking beer! What can go wrong?
5. Buglin’ Bull: Nice chilled bar inside restaurant. Got to try the baked mushrooms!
6. Gold Pan Saloon: Old west bar noted as the oldest bar in South Dakota. Would be higher on the list if not for the inattentive bartender.
7. AJ’s Ore Car Saloon: Ho hum place. We understand why there is a For Sale sign in front.

TIP: When you want to get the local scoop in any area and find the less known things to do, schedule a haircut at the local barber shop. Gary (A Dude’s Place) not only let me in on several local tips, but also gave me an awesome, and well needed, haircut!

Custer State Park:

The Wildlife Loop Road is the main path around the park. It’s a beautiful drive traversing across meadows and winding through hilly, narrow passes. There are also many interior gravel roads if you want to get further off the beat and path. Fisherman Flats Road is where we saw a tremendous amount of Bison grazing and frolicking in the mud. You also might run into the “begging burrows” along the way. These are ancestors of the original pack animals used in the area nearly a century ago. Be sure to have some carrots on hand to feed them, which is allowed.

There are several really nice small lakes within the park that are good for swimming, fishing and kayaking. Sylvan lake is the most popular, and when you see it you’ll know why. We also liked Legion Lake because it was much quiter and make for a fun day kayaking followed by a beverage on the back porch of the restaurant overlooking the lake.

There are many options for hiking enthusiasts within the park. We absolutely loved the unique and somewhat challenging Sunday Gulch trail at Sylvan lake which dealt us everything from deep woods trails to climbing large rocks across rushing water and fantastic views. We also enjoyed the Prairie Trail which was a very peaceful hike through gorgeous prairie land. The dogs enjoyed it as well. Although we opted not to hike Black Elk Peak (Harney Peak) trail, this longer hike climbs to 7,242 feet in elevation and is the highest point in South Dakota. We will be back to do this next time.

Don’t leave Custer State park without driving up the steep and winding road to the Mount Coolidge Lookout and Fire Tower. This stone tower rests atop a 6,023-foot peak and offers breathtaking 360-degree views. On a clear day, you can see the Badlands nearly 60 miles away in the east.

There are plenty of places to camp in the park, but like many state parks, there are no sewer hookups and only one dump station for all of the camping areas. If that’s not for you, the good news is that there are plenty of full service RV parks outside of the state park.

Mount Rushmore:

This National Memorial is one of the most recognized features in the US, if not the world. Its symbolism and history is pure America and there is a special pride that you feel when you visit this amazing rock sculpture of the four president’s instrumental in defining our country. What’s equally special is the perfect balance of man and nature. To fully appreciate this, and for an amazing experience, you should take the right path to Mount Rushmore and avoid the urge to “just get there”. Taking Iron Mountain Road (16A) north from Custer State Park will provide you the full experience. This road was developed specifically to showcase Mount Rushmore and is one of the most beautiful roads I’ve been on. Along the way are unique bridges and three one lane tunnels carved through the mountain. These tunnels were designed specifically to frame Mount Rushmore as you drive through them. It is truly spectacular. Also stop at the Norbeck Overlook for a great view of Mount Rushmore from the hilltop. Now, once you reach the entrance of Mount Rushmore it’s like the grand finally of a great fireworks show.

When you leave, you would be remised not to take the famous Needles Highway. This is a little hairier version of Iron Mountain Road, traversing through rugged granite mountains. The two tunnels on this road are even narrower, at 8′ 9″. It goes without saying, but do not try either of these roads with your RV. Be sure to stop at the Needles Eye Tunnel and get a glimpse of the needle rock formation. If you time it just right, you can get a shot of the sun shining through the eye if the needle.

Mount Rushmore required a second visit… at night. And yes, it’s OK to take the quick route there for this. Your day parking pass will let you park in the evening as well so keep the receipt. This is simply a feel good, feel proud to be an American moment that everyone should experience. The park ranger’s message was something special and the lighting of Mount Rushmore was spectacular. Ending it with America the Beautiful, The Star-Spangled Banner and a tribute on stage to all the veterans in attendance for the lowering of the flag. It truly did feel like the UNITED States of America.

TIP: Take the Iron Mountain Road drive in the morning hours, when the sun is shining on Mount Rushmore. This will give you the full appreciation, as the magnificent sculpture is framed through the tunnels.

Crazy Horse:

My first thought was that this would be a cheesy tourist trap of an unfinished monument. Why would I want to spend my time there? I couldn’t have been more wrong. This is so much more than a monument carved in the mountain, rather a memorial for representing all native American people and a core to preserve the native American culture for decades to come. And oh yeah, it is a pretty spectacular monument. Did you know that the head alone of the Crazy Horse monument is 27 feet taller than any one of the president’s heads on Mount Rushmore?

The monument is enormous and if finished today would be the second largest monument in the world. It has been under construction for 70 years and although the US government has tried to help with funding, the Lakota people have refused any US government contributions. Instead, the entire project is privately funded. The original architect, Korczak Ziolkowski, never got to see it near completion and the project is now run by his daughter with the help of her seven children. The plans for the site around Crazy Horse are as immense as the monument itself. There already is a university on the grounds, but the grand plan will turn this into a city within itself if and when it ever gets completed.

As I left this “unfinished” monument I understood and appreciated it so much more. Its actually not so important if it ever gets completed. What’s more important is the tradition of generations behind the project embodying the native American history today and into the future.

Notable mentions:

Located 13 miles west of Custer is Jewel Cave, the third longest cave in the world. We just love visiting caves as they are all very unique and this was no exception. Tours are available daily.

To the south of Custer State Park is Wind Cave National Park. This is another great place to see wildlife in the beautiful prairie land along the park loop. You can also visit the cave, for another under the earth experience.

Finally, a trip to Hill City for dinner at the Alpine Inn is a must. The restaurant is in a historic hotel built in 1886 and you can actually stay in one of the hotel rooms. They are known for their steak dinners and deserts, but, as we found, they have an amazing lunch menu as well.

TIP: When you’re done with your Jewel Cave tour, drive down the road just west of the main entrance where you will see another small area. There will be some walking paths and a historic building. You’ll come to a stairway. Walk down it and take the pathway below just a little ways and you will come to the original opening of the cave. It’s gated but walk up to it and feel the ice cold breeze coming from the cave.

NORTHERN BLACK HILLS There is so much natural beauty and cool historic towns in the Black Hills region, but that makes sense because there is a lot of history to be told in this part of the country. So let’s break it down the northern region and the places we visited.

Spearfish, SD:

We set up camp in this cozy little town at the Spearfish City Campground. The town is centrally located to many of the areas we wanted to visits and offers much itself, including many bars, restaurants and a nice city park with a small stream that the dogs loved to swim in. Adjacent to the park is a fish hatchery which was very cool to see and understand how the whole process works. If you want to take in some of the western heritage, check out the High Plains Western Heritage Center where you can see everything from stagecoaches to old farm equipment. For something completely different, I recommend a visit to the Thermosphere Gallery. This small gallery down a small road provides a display of the artists three dimensional scenes painted on acrylic rotating spheres. It’s one of those things that you just have to see to appreciate.

Deadwood, SD:

We’ve been to a lot of towns that claim to be an “old west” town. None of them seem to live up to the hype, until we got to Deadwood. As you walk down the cobblestone streets of Deadwood you might encounter a passing horse and buggy or a wild west shootout, or the sheriff dragging some thug down to the jailhouse. You can belly up to the bar of Saloon #10 where Wild Bill Hickok was shot or get a front row seat to the reenactment of the demise of Wild Bill at the poker table. You truly feel like you’ve stepped back in time in this town.

But it’s not all guns and horses… it’s horses and rodeo of course at the Days of 76 Rodeo grounds. We were fortunate enough to be there during one of the rodeos and it is an amazing venue! When you venture off of main street there is much more in Deadwood such as the Mount Moriah Cemetery. We don’t normally have cemeteries on our to do list but visiting the grave sites of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane is pretty cool. there are also many other graves there and the site is overall quite impressive, perched on a tall hill overlooking the town. We also enjoy visiting old historic houses in our travels and Deadwood has a good one with the Adams House, the 1892 home of Deadwood pioneer W.E. Adams. At the end of the day head over to the historic Silverado Franklin hotel for dinner and to test your luck at the poker table. No eights and aces, now!

TIP: Staying at one of the local hotels in Deadwood for a long weekend would be a fantastic getaway and something we plan to do in the future. There is just so much to do in this town and the idea of it all being right out your hotels front door is very appealing. Put this on your bucket list.

Sturgis, SD:

If you have “motorcycle” anywhere in your vocabulary then you know Sturgis is the home of the world largest motorcycle rally, where half a million motorcyclists converge, now in its 82nd year. We were there just a week or two before the ten day rally and there was a certain vibe in the air, you could tell something big was coming. To get my motorcycle fix, we visiting the Motorcycle Hall of Fame which was a big treat. I even saw a version of my original bike there, a 1978 Yamaha XS650. We stopped in for a quick lunch at the Knuckle Saloon and had their famous steak tips, a must try. Just up the road is the Full Throttle Saloon, the worlds largest biker bar. This place is amazing and they even have there own distillery. We came home with a bottle of the Full Throttle 70 Proof Expresso Shot liqueur. No, I will not share any!

TIP: Take the Boulder Canyon road 14A to or from Sturgis to get to Deadwood or the Spearfish Canyon road. It’s another great scenic drive.

Spearfish Canyon:

Last, but certainly not least, is this beautiful picturesque canyon drive. There are waterfalls, great hikes and places to stop to eat along the way. The three primary falls, which are all well worth visiting are:

• Bridal Veil Falls: Accessible right off the road but you can also cross the creak and climb down right next to the base of the falls.
• Spearfish Falls: Located down a short hiking path behind the Latchstring restaurant.
• Roughlock Falls: You can either take the trail to the falls or drive down road 222 for a little ways and take the short boardwalk.

TIP: Drive down road 222 a bit further and you will come to a historic site where they filmed one of the scenes from Dances with Wolves. In fact, these gravel back roads are well worth the adventure if you like to get off the beat and path.

We took a very interesting hike to Devils Bathtub. The research I did told me that there are “a few” creek crossings. Well, the trail traverses back and forth across the river and there had to be at least a dozen creek crossings. Not a problem, but come prepared to get your feet wet and do some dancing across the rocks in the creek. When you get closer to the end the “trail” gets more difficult, as you have to traverse across large rocks and more of the creek, but it’s worth it when you get to the “bathtubs”. It is absolutely gorgeous and a great place to cool off.

The day wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Cheyenne Crossing, a very popular place in the middle of nowhere. They are famous for their Indian Tacos, and for good reason, they are amazing. But, the carrot cake, oh the carrot cake! Even if you hate carrot cake you will love this. I’m ruined forever.

Notable mention:

As a worthy side trip, an hour west of Spearfish in Wyoming, is the Devils Tower National Monument. Some say this large rock formation is a bit of a tourist trap, but like most things, once you immerse yourself in it and learn some of the history, you appreciate it much better. There’s a short hike around the base of the monument that gets you up close and also allows you to see some of the rock climbers scaling the walls. There are also some longer hikes that you can take to get a different vantage point of the monument. All in all, this is well worth the hour drive.

It was sad to leave South Dakota, as we both truly fell in love with it, but we have more adventures ahead of us and we know we will be back again to this beautiful state and its wonderful people.

Be sure to check out all of our pictures from the Black Hills and make sure you are subscribed to our blog to get updates on or next adventure.

Update: October 2023

We returned to Custer South Dakota in September 2023 with our friends Sandra and Dennis to experience the annual Buffalo Roundup. Imagine 1,300 buffalo being herded across the open lands of Custer State park! This was an amazing once in a lifetime experience. It’s not all just for show though, the annual roundup is done to properly maintain the herd, assuring the health and overall numbers of the herd. Needless to say, it’s a huge event that even the governor participates in!

While we were in the area, we had a chance to knock off another big item on our “come back” list, that being the Black Elk Peak (aka Harney Peak) hike. This is a 6.5 mile hike with a 1,500 foot elevation gain, so certainly no stroll in the park. What a reward when you get to the peak! First off, the views are absolutely incredible. Secondly, there is one of the coolest fire lookout structures you will ever see at the top. It’s an amazing hike that should be a serious consideration for anyone visiting the area.

To properly balance things out, we spent an afternoon at the Moccasin Springs Natural Mineral Spa. The 6 outdoor mineral pools, ranging in temperature from 80-105 degrees is a perfect way to relax and sooth all those aching muscles.

We got greeted by a visit from my mother for several days, which gave us the perfect opportunity to visit many of our favorite places again since she had never been to South Dakota. We thoroughly enjoyed showing her around, including a visit to Mount Rushmore and the local art show.

The Custer area is a favorite of ours and we see ourselves returning regularly whenever we can. It was especially rewarding sharing it with family and friends. Be sure to check out all of our pictures from the Black Hills.