Fort Bragg – Mendocino, California

There’s a stretch of coastline in northern California that’s snuck far away from the other well known spots. It’s not easy to get to (especially in an RV) and that’s half the reason to like it. You won’t find any big department stores or many retail chains out here. Pack up at Walmart before you head out here because you’ll have to travel a long way to find one. But once you get here…yeah!

Fort Bragg and Mendocino are only 10 miles apart along a beautiful stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway. In between the two small towns are numerous state parks offering amazing ocean views, hiking trails and nature walks. Although the two towns share a chilled laid-back atmosphere, they each have a very different personality. Fort Bragg is more of a blue-collar town, born from the lumber mill industry. Although the mills are long gone, that history remains, along with a rustic fishing village. Mendocino, on the other hand, is a more chic town with several bed and breakfasts and small lodges along with local shops and nice restaurants. Depending on your cup of tea, both offer an escape from the rat race of the city and is likely why many Californians talk so highly of this area.

GETTING THERE

Although only 150 miles or so from San Francisco, this is not the easiest place to get to depending on what you’re driving. There are three primary ways to get to the Fort Bragg/Mendocino area.

1. Both towns are right on Highway 1 (Pacific Coast Highway) so this is a logical and scenic way to get there from the north or south. However, this is not the fastest route nor is it appropriate for larger RV’s coming from the south. I was told that Highway 1 from the north isn’t as bad, but what we drove of it in the Jeep was a bit tricky in spots.
2. Highway 101 to Highway 128 is an option coming from the south and is the path we took in our 35′ motorhome pulling a Jeep. 101 is a normal highway and is fine, but 128 was a very challenging drive. The first quarter of this 55 mile road is winding, narrow and steep. It will take 100% of your focus no matter what you are driving. It gets a little better from there, but don’t let your guard down because the last quarter goes through a (hypnotic) redwood forest. You’ll have the same narrow winding road but now with less visibility and huge trees very close to the white line. Once you reach the end, you still need to drive a short stretch of Highway 1 with some hairpin turns. There were no overhead obstacles and I was able to (barely) stay in my lane throughout the journey so we’ll call it a success.
3. The last choice is 101 to Highway 20 into Fort Bragg. I would say 20 is slightly better than 128 and does have better pullouts to allow faster traffic to pass you. But this is still no walk in the park. We took this route on our way out since we were heading north to the Redwoods. Again, this road will take 100% of your concentration.

TOP THINGS TO DO

We were there to explore, so explore we did, but it’s also a great place just to relax and chill. Our top list of things to do include:

Hang out at the Noyo Harbor District

This old fishing harbor community in Fort Bragg is located just inland on a coastal waterway. the small community is lined with fishing boats, seafood restaurants and little dive bars. It’s a cool casual vibe where you can kick back and hang with the locals.

Visit the Guest House Museum

This is a great way to learn about the history of Fort Bragg while touring an old historic house. You will have a better appreciation for the area after visiting this museum, which was the official residence of Union Lumber Company founder, Charles Russell Johnson.

Walk on the Glass Beach

I know, that doesn’t sound too appealing, but this glass has been smoothed and polished from the ocean for years. It really is quite fascinating, and somewhat disturbing, how all this came to be. Back in the lumber mill days, trash was simply thrown over the edge of the cliff into the ocean. well, sometimes mother nature has a way of turning trash into art.

Take a stroll on the Coastal Trail

This wonderful 3 mile (one way) trail goes from Glass Beach southward to Noyo Headlands Park and is a perfect combo with a beach stop. The entire trail goes along the ocean bluff so it’s one of those, walk as far as you like and then turn around kind of trails. Beautiful views along the entire way.

Ride the Skunk Train

We didn’t get a chance to do this but understand it is an amazing trip through the redwoods along a historical route. The price is reasonable and the total trip is under 2 hours so a worthy investment of time and money.

Walk on a black sand beach

Laguna Beach is located north of Fort Bragg in Mackerricher State Park and is a beautiful spot. There is a boardwalk to take a stroll to a viewpoint for whale watching and the black sand beach is epic.

Drive the Pacific Coast Highway

I don’t care what part of this highway you’re on, it never gets old. You’ll be traveling on it anyways visiting these sites, but it’s well worth just driving as far as your heart’s content.

Check out Jug Handle State Natural Reserve

The 5.2 mile Ecological Staircase Trail was closed but to our surprise there was access to a beautiful beach right off the start of the trail. A rocky shore with a shallow swimming beach surrounded by white sand. Shannon found her zen in this spot.

Walk to the Point Cabrillo Lighthouse

A leisurely walk leads you to this historic lighthouse built in 1909. The beacon in the lighthouse is a very rare glass structure that is like nothing I’ve seen before. The building features a small museum and on certain days of the month they offer tours into the lighthouse tower. On the property are historic guest houses and of course the shoreline is gorgeous.

Be amazed at Russian Gulch State Park

This is an example of incredible beauty where the redwoods meet the sea. On one side of this park is the ocean with a very unique sinkhole called Devil’s Punchbowl. On the other side is a 7 mile hike through the redwood forest to a beautiful waterfall. Adding to the uniqueness were many downed trees across the trail creating interesting obstacles to crawl over or under. I was amazed how new life emerges from the trunks of past trees like an ancestral circle of life.

Adore the Pacific coast at Mendocino Headlands State Park

This state park adjacent to Mendocino has some of the most beautiful coastal views in the area. Many of them can be seen from just a short walk or even driving through in your car, but trails line most of the shoreline as well.

Explore the sea caves

Along the southern shore of Mendocino are some incredible sea caves that can be explored during low tide. You can get to this area from the adjacent Big River Beach. or via a trail behind the Ford House Visitors Center which leads to a stairway down to the beach. The sea caves were amazing and we even had a sea otter cross the beach in front of us and head into one of the caves… that I had just been in.

PLACES TO EAT

There are tons of casual and upscale restaurants in both towns and we were only able to hit a handful of them so this is not an exhaustive list, but these are some great choices that we thoroughly enjoyed.

Sea Pal Cove

Fish and chips with a cold beer outside on the deck along the water. Need I say more. This was our dinner spot on our first night in Fort Bragg at the Noyo Harbor District.

Princess Seafood Market

Also, in the Noyo Harbor District, this was on our shortlist but they were closed the night we tried to eat there. We understand they have great seafood.

Piaci Pub & Pizzeria

Great little locals spot for drinks and pizza in Fort Bragg. It’s small and cozy and typical for many of the places in Fort Bragg.

Goodlife Cafe & Bakery

This little spot in Mendocino is open for breakfast and lunch and is one of those places you will want to go back to over and over again. It has an indoor eating area and a large covered outdoor space.

Whether you’re staying at the Promo RV Park and Campground in Fort Bragg as we did or lodging at a small bungalow in Mendocino, you will certainly be able to decompress in this chilled secluded part of northern California. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a busy place with lots of activities for the kids, this might not be the place for you.

Be sure to check out all of our pictures from the area.