Olympic National Park

In the far northwestern reaches of the United States is the Olympic Peninsula, an area of diverse ecosystems spanning glaciated mountains, old-growth temperate rainforests and rugged Pacific coastline. The centerpiece of the Peninsula, covering 922,651 acres (or 1,442 square miles), including a 60-mile stretch of Pacific coastline, is Olympic National Park.

Although there are twelve National parks larger than Olympic (seven of those being in Alaska), this National Park is considerably spread out. In-between sections of the park are national forest, wilderness areas and Indian reservations. If you took Highway 101 around the park, the 329-mile trip would take you 8 hours to complete without stopping, and you would still only be scratching the surface of actually “seeing” the park. It is quite immense and worthy of exploring every square mile, although that might take a lifetime to complete.

We strategically attacked this beast from two seperate basecamps, spending 10 days in Forks, Washington and 10 days in Port Angeles, Washington.

Forks, a small town of approximately 3,300 people is located on the west side of Olympic National Park. A visit to the Forks Timber Museum is a great place to learn about the history of this old mining town. However, the town has grown in popularity more recently due to it being the setting of the Twilight novel series and films. Tourists and vampires alike flock here to visit the many locations highlighted in the series. If your not into that kind of stuff, Forks is the perfect basecamp to explore the coastline and rain forest areas of the park.

Port Angeles sits on the northern edge of the park and along the shores of the Straits of Juan De Fuca. The town has plenty of cool places to eat and drink while looking across the waters into Canada, including Kokopelli Grill where we had some amazing smoked oysters and sauteed clams and mussels. Port Angeles is a much larger town than Forks, so you can find all your creature comforts here. It’s also a great place to make your basecamp to explore the mountain region of the park in addition to the Crescent Lake area.

Considering the complexity of the region and the fact that not everyone will be able to explore all areas of the park and beyond, I will attempt to break this down into strategic areas of the park and the Olympic Peninsula in general.

COASTAL REGION

Most of the northern coast of Washington is included within the boundaries of the National Park. Some areas are very remote and can only be reached by hiking or backpacking along the beach. While other areas are more accessible, most beaches do require at least a short hike and descent to reach since this part of the coast is thickly forested. Highway 101 meanders in and out of the coast, so many of the beaches can be accessed from small parking areas right off the highway. There are way too many beaches to mention, but I’ll cover the ones typically of most interest and what we personally experienced.

Kalaloch

Starting to the south is the Kalaloch shoreline. If you haven’t had your morning cup of Jo yet, the small village of Kalaloch would be a good place to start your day. The local store is the place to get that much needed latte. Once your tank is full head just north to the Kalaloch Campground and park in the day use area. From here you can easily reach the (Kalaloch) beach. It’s a great beach for a long walk and with one really cool feature, the Tree of Life. This magical tree thrives along the edge of the beach, with its roots completely exposed due to the soil eroded below it. How it survives the harsh coastal conditions, nobody knows, but it is a special site to see.

Speaking of trees, continuing just a bit further up the road on the inland side is the Kalaloch Big Cedar Nature Trail. This short trail is beautiful and provides a tail of another tree surviving in the forest. The star is a half fallen cedar which is magnificent, and the rest of the 1/4 mile trail through the forest is very serene.

Further north is Ruby Beach, an epic Washington beach. You start with a short hike through a forest before reaching this magnificent beach with tons of driftwood. Magnificent sea stacks line the coast and if you are there during low tide there are some great opportunity for tidepool exploring. It’s also a popular location for sunsets.

Mora

Continuing up the coast and further north is the Mora area. Since 101 traverses more inland in this area, the route to get to these beaches is via Highway 110. Third Beach and Second Beach require a short hike to get to the beach, while First Beach is a less isolated and more easily accessible beach right in the town of La Push. Second Beach is said to be a great spot for sunsets, but we didn’t make it to Second Beach or Third Beach. However, we did catch an amazing sunset at Rialto Beach.

On the other side of the Quillayute River is Rialto Beach, another popular and spectacular beach. The beach is easily accessible after a bit of a scramble through large driftwood trees. The driftwood “art” sculptures on the beach are quite impressive on their own. A mile and a half walk down the beach, via a log (or creek) crossing, will get you to Hole-In-The-Wall, a large rock outcropping with a big hole. This, and the other sea stacks, are a great area for exploring and tidepooling but must be done at low tide. On the way back we saw a couple of bald eagles that seemed to be following along with us. It was a great beach and hike but that sand can get the best of you.

Nea Bay and Cape Flattery

In the far northwestern part of the state is the Makah Indian Reservation. Although this area is technically not part of the National Park, it should be a serious consideration for a day trip when visiting Olympic National Park. Make your first stop at the Makah Cultural & Research Center Museum to learn about the deep history of this area to the Makah people. The history is fascinating and the museum does such a great job of preserving it and telling the story. We even got the opportunity to talk with the host for a while, a Makah native from the area herself. Don’t forget to purchase a permit while you’re at the museum.

As you drive along Cape Flattery Road you will now connect better with many of the small town such as Neah Bay and the significance this areas is to the Makah culture. The road will finally end at Cape Flattery and a trail to an amazing overlook at the northwesternmost point of the contiguous United States. The trail, although short, has a series of narrow wood planks which can be challenging with dogs or when its crowded so I would recommend leaving the pooches at home and doing this at an off time. The views at the point are breathtaking. You can see the the Canadian coast of Vancouver Island and just offshore, the Cape Flattery Lighthouse on Tatoosh Island.

If you’re looking for a little more adventure, just a bit further south is Shi Shi Beach. The trail to the beach starts out in Makah territory for the first mile and then becomes National Park. It’s a steep descent to the beach and often extremely muddy, but as I understand it, well worth the trek. It’s another 2-3 miles to the Point of Arches so the total hike is 8-10 miles round trip. Many people camp out on the beach, but you must be aware of the tides. It supposed to be very beautiful and spiritual with lots of tidepooling along the way. We didn’t do this one but would like to in the future.

TEMPERATE RAIN FORESTS

Slightly inland, between the coast and the mountains, lies two rainforests, Hoh and Quinault. These rainforests receive on average 10-15 “feet” of rain per year. Both offer driving and hiking experiences within the forests. It was really hard to get the proper contrast and details with an iPhone camera, so the pictures do not do it proper justice.

Hoh Rain Forest

The drive down Upper Hoh Road gets better and better as you go. If you have a convertible, take the top down. The road meanders along the Hoh River and opens up for an occasional view of Mount Olympus. The road ends at the visitors center and access to a few hikes that you will want to indulge in. The Hall of Mosses is a short 1-mile stroll that is a must do. The trail goes through an old growth forest with curtains of moss draping the trees. An abundance of fern undergrowth along with wild mushrooms and small ponds with crystal clear water and silky green grasses add to the beauty. It’s one of those places where everyone is quiet, taking in the peace and tranquility.

The Hall of Mosses Trail interconnects with the slightly longer Spruce Nature Trail. I highly recommend doing both. Spruce Nature Trail is beautiful as well and not nearly as many people. Just such an enjoyable walk through the rainforest.

For those looking for a longer excursion, the Hoh River Trail provides an up and back hike with many turn around points from just over 5 miles round trip to over 40 miles. I personally prefer to travel anything over 10 miles with wheels under me.

Quinault Rain Forest

Further to the south is the Quinault Rain Forest. Although it may not be as popular or possess quite the magical experience as Hoh, it has its own special features that make it well worth the journey. The North Shore and South Shore roads make a loop around Quinault Lake, paved to the west and gravel with potholes to the east. Along the way are several viewpoints and a couple of roadside waterfalls.

The first hike we did, off of North Shore Road, was the Kestner Homestead Trail. This short hike went through a beautiful deep forested area to an old homestead settlement. We saw an elk resting along a creek bed along the way.

As we made our way around to the south part of the lake we stopped for a longer hike, combining the short Quinault Rain Forest Trail with the longer Quinault Loop Trail for about a 4 mile or so adventure. The trail has some moderate ups and downs and goes through some amazing forest with huge trees. The backside of the loop goes along the lake and passes the historic Lake Quinault Lodge, built in 1889.

LAKE CRESCENT

Lake Crescent is a stunning glacial lake on the northern edge of the park. The drive along Highway 101 adjacent to the lake is reminiscent of driving around Lake Tahoe – and that’s high praise. There are a couple pullouts to stop along the way and take some pictures. There are also some backroads on the north side of the lake that are worth checking out as well. East Beach provides a somewhat secluded small beach area and shallow water for swimming if you can handle the frigid water temperatures. The Lake Crescent Lodge also has a beach and is a great place to go for a bite to eat or a beverage after a hike or to rent a kayak. Speaking of hikes, there are two great ones by the lake.

Devil’s Punchbowl

This easy 2 1/2 mile hike along the Spruce Railroad Trail provides some outstanding views of Crescent Lake. As you near the end, the shoreline becomes shear cliffs and the trail goes across a bridge in an area called Devil’s Punchbowl. This is a beautiful little spot and popular for swimming or jumping off the bridge into the water. We opted to let others entertain us in this respect, rather than indulging ourselves.

Marymere Falls

This popular waterfall hike is near Lake Crescent Lodge. It’s another easy and very enjoyable hike, under 2 miles. The waterfall is magnificent with multiple levels and several different viewing areas. We were extremely lucky to beat the weekend crowds and momentarily have it all to ourselves.

Granny’s Cafe

A perfect break after your Lake Crescent day is at Granny’s Cafe, one of many small cafes in the area. Granny’s specializes in their soft serve ice cream, pies and burgers. Although I felt the blackberry pie wasn’t spectacular, the burger and ice cream were amazing.

ELWHA VALLEY

This smaller area of the park is defined by the Elwha River. In 2012 the 108 foot Elwha Dam that stood for nearly 100 years was demolished in an attempt to restore the original ecosystem of the river valley. Olympic Hot Springs Road is the main entry into this part of the park, however, there is a long-term closure of the road past Madison Falls due to the road being washed out.

Madison Falls

The short drive to the trailhead traverses along the beautiful Elwha River, flowing strongly with its crystal clear water. The hike to the falls is short and sweet with a big payoff. It’s not often you can see such a magnificent spot with such little effort.

HURRICANE RIDGE

Hurricane Ridge Road ascends over 5,200 feet from Port Angeles through the Olympic Mountains with magnificent views along the way. In one direction is the Strait of Juan De Fuca and the shoreline of Canada, and the other direction is the summit of Mount Olympus at 7,965 feet, capped by Blue Glacier. It’s a magnificent drive and seemingly a different world from the rainforests and coastline below. Although the lodge at the top burned down in 2023, the large parking area gives access to many nature trails, hiking trails and wildlife viewing. Deer are plentiful on the ridge and the Olympic Marmot can often be seen as well. We saw many of both.

Hurricane Hill Trail

Most National Parks we’ve been to have that one hike that takes the experience to another level. Hurricane Hill was that hike for me. It’s only 3 1/2 miles round trip but you gain over 800 feet so it’s no walk in the park. Fortunately, the road to the trailhead had just opened that morning for the season, otherwise there would have been an addition 3 miles to add to this one and a lot more uphill. The 360-degree views from the top are amazing and impossible to capture in pictures, as is the feeling of being there.

High Ridge Trail to Sunrise Point

Since I got fortunate with the road being open to Hurricane Hill, I decided to tackle this shorter hike once I was finished. Although it is shorter, it’s just as steep in spots. The views were good, but it didn’t compare to the earlier views. I would recommend this hike if you are not doing Hurricane Hill.

Backroads

There are two backroads in this part of the park, Deer Park and Obstruction Point. In typical National Park fashion, these roads are late to open in the summer. Fortunately Deer Park Road opened just days before we left so we had a chance to check it out. The road changes from a paved two lane, to paved one lane to dirt and gravel for the last 7 miles or so. It’s a windy, steep road, and taking it another mile past the campground offers a huge reward. The lookout was amazing even on a rainy and snowy (mid-June) day. The road was graded well so most vehicles can drive this, depending on experience and conditions.

SOL DUC VALLEY

This region of the park is accessed off of Highway 101 just west of Crescent Lake. It’s another beautiful, thickly forested area defined by the Sol Duc River, that has all the makings for a great day’s outing.

Salmon Cascades

As you drive down Sol Duc Hot Springs Road you come to a small pull-out called Salmon Cascades. Just 20 to 30 yards from the road is a beautiful section of the river with a small cascade. In the summer you can watch the salmon swim upstream through the cascade. We were there a bit early for that but it was still a great stop.

Sol Duc Falls

The top feature to this region of the park is the Sol Duc Falls. It’s a short hike through an old growth forest to the falls. A bridge adjacent to the falls adds to the beauty and opportunities to not only see the falls but the narrow canyon downstream. It tends to get a bit crowded, but it is a hike and waterfall that you don’t want to miss.

Sol Duc Hot Springs

What better way to relax after a nice hike then soak in a hot spring! Hot springs come in many flavors, from serene spas in a natural setting to full blown pools with jumping and partying. This is somewhere in-between and made for a relaxing time to unwind.

SALT CREEK RECREATION AREA

This area is not part of the National Park, rather a small county park located right on the Strait of Juan De Fuca, west of Port Angeles. In addition to camping and hiking trails, there are two very cool features in the park.

Camp Hayden

This World War II bunker, hidden under a berm, is quite fascinating. Unlike some of the bunkers we have seen in the Pacific Northwest, in this one you can actually walk into many of the rooms. Everything seems to be stuck in time and intact minus the two 16-inch guns.

Crescent Beach

Crescent Beach can be accessed from a short trail at Salt Creek Recreation Area or from just down the road following the inland waterway. Note, that if you are accessing it from the trail there is some rock scrambling required to get down to the beach. The beach itself is a great place to walk and for tidepooling during low tide.

Blackberry Cafe

This place is the real deal and a great stop after visiting the Salt Creek area. Another small area cafe serving soups sandwiches and amazing blackberry pie. Drop the mic, nuff said!

CONCLUSION

If you can’t decide if you want a vacation to the coast, the mountains or a forest, Olympic National Park might be the perfect destination. It truly is like three parks in one, but it does take some time to explore. The coastal and forest regions can be visited year round, but the mountain region will have considerable access restrictions in the winter and spring so plan accordingly. As if the park doesn’t offer enough, a side trip to Victoria BC, via the Black Ball Ferry, is a great option for a day or two. I’ll write more about that later, but for now it’s off to the next adventure.

Be sure to check out all of our pictures from the Olympic Peninsula and National Park.