Outer Banks

We came to the Outer Banks in the fall of 2022 but had to make a quick exit after only about a day and a half because of a storm coming in. The locals said it would be OK; the storm washes the dunes into the road (as in singular, there’s only one) and you’re stranded for a few days until they “plow the sand off the road” 😲. Considering there was only a sand dune between us and the Atlantic Ocean, and the three bridges required to get off the islands, we decided to get out while we could and spent the night at a Cracker Barrel parking lot. We were glad to return in April of 2025 to pick up where we left off.

So, let’s first clarify what the Outer Banks actually are. The Outer Banks, commonly known as OBX, are a series of barrier islands located off the coast of North Carolina. These islands stretch for about 200 miles, forming a narrow, sandy strip of land between the Atlantic Ocean and the Pamlico Sound. The exact number of islands that make up the OBX gets confusing because it continues to change as dunes erode and inlets come and go. Keeping the technicalities to a minimum, Bodie Island to the north is the most populated area of the OBX and home to familiar places such as Nags Head, Kitty Hawk and Kill Devil Hills. Further to the north are towns such as Duck and Corolla and the remote area of the Currituck National Wildlife Refuge which stretches up to the Virginia border. To the south is Hatteras Island and the Cape Hatteras National Seashore which includes town such as Waves and Cape Hatteras. A very remote island on the far southern part of the OBX, and accessible only by ferry or private boat, is Ocracoke Island. Finally, Roanoke Island is located between the mainland and the other islands within the sound. Phew, and that was (trying) to simplify it!

Although the different sections of the OBX share similar attributes of natural beauty with miles of beach and dunes, they differ significantly in many ways. For example, the area of Nags Head, Kill Devil Hills and Kitty Hawk on Bodie Island is very touristy with many hotels, outlet malls, and kid’s attractions (it may just be the putt putt capital of the world). As you move further north things transition quickly once you reach the town of Southern Shores and then into Duck and Corolla. You leave the 4 lane highway behind, mature trees frame upscale neighborhoods and extravagant homes. Putt Putt golf is replaced with boardwalks and nice boutiques. To the south Hatteras Island is much more chilled and remote with sand dunes lining the road. You’ll drive for miles with nothing but remote beaches to explore until you get to Waves where you’ll find a much more laid back and “rustic beachy” community.

Where you stay when visiting the OBX is important because it’s hard to explore it all. If you have kids and need to entertain them, staying somewhere between Nags Head and Kitty Hawk would probably make sense. However, if you’re looking for remote seclusion on a beach and be more in touch with nature, you might consider somewhere on Hatteras Island such as Waves where we stayed at Ocean Waves Campground during our first visit. On our most current visit we stayed on Roanoke Island at The Refuge on Roanoke Island. Although further from the beach, the centralized location suited our needs.

We’ve now visited the OBX in the spring and fall and have explored from the Virginia border to Cape Hatteras, so we have a much better feel for the islands. We prefer these kinds of places during the shoulder seasons to avoid the crowds and the heat of summer. And I’ll have to say, we accomplished both of those goals. These are our recommendations for a great stay in the OBX based on some of the favorite things we enjoyed during the beautiful 70-degree weather.

Explore a Lighthouse

The OBX is home to three historic 19th century lighthouses: Currituck Beach, Bodie Island and Cape Hatteras. If you’re like us and enjoy chasing lighthouses, you will love these. Currituck is very unique as it is a brick lighthouse and located in the adorable historic town of Corolla. Bodie is a more traditional looking black and white lighthouse with a lot to explore around the grounds. And Cape Hatteras is one of the most recognized and tallest lighthouses in the US. All three provide the opportunity to climb to the top depending on the season, weather and other factors. I climbed Currituck and the views from the top were worth every step.

Climb the Tallest Dunes on the East Coast

Speaking of climbing, the tallest dunes on the east coast are right in Nags Head at Jockey’s Ridge State Park. Even if you don’t climb to the 100-foot peak (OK not that tall), you can still explore and take the nature trail through the dunes. It’s quite beautiful and a cool experience. If you want to up that experience a bit, they also offer hang gliding lessons at the dunes. Would of, could of, should of.

See Where the Wright Brothers Took Flight

Speaking of flying… wind, sand, and a dream of flight brought Wilbur and Orville Wright to Kitty Hawk where, after four years of scientific experimentation, they achieved the first successful airplane flight on December 17, 1903, and changed our world forever. I’ve blogged about this separately.

Relax on the Beach

Well, this one’s a no brainer. You have 200 miles of amazing beaches so find one to put your toes in the water and your ass in the sand! There are many public beaches in the more populated Bodie Island area, but we prefer the more isolated areas along the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. You might have to traverse through the dunes to get to these beaches but it’s well worth the effort. Great shelling too!

Take a Stroll Along the Boardwalk in Duck

Duck is an awesome little town, and they were very smart how they laid it out. There is a boardwalk that stretches along the sound for over a mile where you can take a stroll, take in the beauty and shop at all the local spots and then stop for a bite to eat or a beverage. We enjoyed a glass of wine and charcuterie board on the patio at a little place called Even-Tide.

Go Off-Roading on the Beach and See Wild Horses

The OBX is home to wild horses, descendants of Spanish Mustangs brought to America by early settlers in the 1500s. They roam freely in the Corolla and Currituck area to the far north where highway 12 ends into the sand. With the proper 4WD vehicle you can drive the beach and some of the interior (sand) roads. The sand is deep, and the drive is awesome. Good, thing, because the anticipation of seeing the horses did not pan out for us. The horses seemed to have eluded us that day but it was still great seeing this remote area of the OBX. If you don’t have a 4WD vehicle, there are paid tours that can take you on the journey.

Take a Hike In a Nature Preserve

Just before the end of the road and access to the 4WD beach is the Currituck Banks Reserve. This is a beautiful area for a light hike on the Sound Overlook Boardwalk and Maritime Forest Trail. It is also another great place to see the wild horses. Strike 2 for us but it was all good.

TIP: When exploring the northern sections of the OBX, stop in to the Northern Outer Banks Visitor Center in Corolla. They are very informative and can provide you maps and information on driving the beach and potential permit requirements.

Eat Some Great Seafood

You can’t go wrong with your seafood choices in the OBX, it’s all fresh and sourced locally. There are numerous seafood restaurants and seafood markets. Check your Google reviews and pick someplace that has the atmosphere you prefer. We enjoyed a great dinner at the Blue Water Grill and Raw Bar in Manteo overlooking the marina. We also returned to Oceanas Bistro, a small casual place in Avan, far to the south.

We are so glad we made it back to the Outer Banks and learned just how much there is to see and do with a great deal of diversity from area to area. We just love the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and staying right on the beach at one of the many RV parks around there. We also really appreciated the Duck and Corolla area far to the north, however there are no RV parks here so if you’re traveling by RV the closest you can get is Kitty Hawk or on Roanoke Island like we did on our return trip. Maybe the OBX is just meant for two trips. It’s funny how things work out.

Be sure to check out all of our pictures from the OBX.