Pearce-Sunsites, Arizona

We stopped in Pearce-Sunsites for a 10-day visit based on a recommendation from fellow travelers. What we experienced was totally unexpected on so many levels. You might be surprised as well.

First of all Pearce and Sunsite (herein referred to as Pearce) are two very small unincorporated communities in Cochise county in far southeast Arizona, about 85 miles from Tucson. As one of the locals described it, “we are centrally located in the middle of nowhere”. As you look around you feel like you’re standing in the middle of a plate or cake pan. It’s flat all around but encircled by mountains in the not so far distance. Every direction you look has a beautiful view past the barren desert. But it’s not the natural beauty that headlines this place, it’s something much more special.

In all of our travels we have never felt more welcome and immediately part of a community as we did in Pearce. It all started with our hosts and owners of Goldminers RV Park. Greg and Cindy are amazing people who took this small park over two years ago and have made considerable improvements and continue to do so. We received a couple courtesy calls from Cindy before we even arrived and then both of them welcomed us when we pulled in. We weren’t simply staying at their RV park, we were guests at their home, and they made us feel like it in every way imaginable.

Our friendship with Greg and Cindy expanded to other locals as they invited us to a gathering at a small business right down the street called Under His Wings 333. It was pizza and game night hosted by owners Mike and Sheri. Mike needed feedback on his new Italian pizza recipe that they were adding to the menu of amazing homemade ice cream and some of the best coffees we have ever tasted. It’s an antique shop, it’s an ice cream store, it’s a coffee shop, It’s a pizza restaurant, it’s a bird rescue sanctuary… yea maybe a bit confusing but what we quickly found is that more so this is a central place for the community to gather and socialize. Mike and Sheri aren’t trying to make it rich here, they’re genuinely giving back to the community as so many others in the area are. We met so many people that night and started a great friendship with Mike and Sheri who we visited with several times during our stay.

On Friday morning’s there is a farmers’ market in town. This is a big farming community with local growers providing everything from fruits and vegetables, to some of the best grown pistachios, to one of the largest distributors of peppers in the country. Shannon stocked up with some items from a nice lady from the Catskills and I couldn’t resist the mini cheesecakes from Jeanne. We met an old German baker named Otto and chatted it up with a local rancher about rodeo and some people we knew in common. Everyone in this town is so friendly and immediately invite you into their world. We felt so at home.

Since we’re on the topic of food and people, a little further down the road in Sunizona (yea that’s right) is Sandy’s Restaurant. We stopped in there for some home cooking after a hike one day and Sandy was kind enough to direct us to some local off-road trails and gave us her contact information if we had any follow up questions (or got stuck?). What we also found is that Sandy is the best baker on the planet! I will not divulge how many times I went back for sweets, that’s between me and Sandy.

Did I mention this is wine country? There are dozens of wineries from Wilcox to the north and all through the valley. Not quite Napa Valley but probably with a whole lot more local charm I’d expect. We stopped at Birds & Barrels Vineyards for a tasting and some interesting conversation. I’m not a huge wine drinker but I couldn’t resist the Malbec. Shannon went with the Chardonnay.

Wilcox, which is the “big town” 30 miles to the north, is a mix of industry and small town main street. Apparently the town sticks to its small town roots and is not letting Walmart set up shop in town. We were walking past the Wilcox Historic Theater and got invited in for an old black and white film that was just starting. Five dollars a head for popcorn a drink and a movie was too much to resist. We returned for the annual Christmas parade a couple days later which was fun.

Although it’s the people and sense of community that makes Pearce stand out, it is certainly not short on natural beauty and adventure. Centrally located in the middle of nowhere maybe but there is so much within an hour any direction. The fun towns of Tombstone and Bisbee are even a short day trip away. So, let’s highlight some must go spots in the area:

Chiricahua National Monument

A volcanic eruption 27 million years ago, and subsequent erosion, created a masterpiece of towering rock formations in this mountainous region. Some of the pinnacles with huge rocks carefully balanced don’t look like they will hold for another 5 minutes so it’s quite astonishing that they have been there for millions of years. The park, spanning 12,000 acres, is accessible from a 17-mile scenic drive and lots of amazing hikes. We saw tons of White-Tailed Deer in the park along with a huge pack of Coatimundis (Coati). We loved this place so much we went back several times. Three hikes that were a lot of fun and gave us a broad perspective of the area include:

• Echo Canyon gives you the opportunity to drive through the entire 17 mile scenic road to get to the trailhead. This hike is only 3.2 miles but feels like its longer and has a bit of elevation gain on the return. It starts out right in the middle of of the rock formations which provide a lot of opportunity for off-trail exploring. Lots of vista views along the way just put this trail over the top

• Heart of Rocks Loop trail is a bit more work at 7 miles and a 1,600 foot elevation change. It also has a lot more varied terrain with a lot of uphill to get to the rock formations and then once you are there, some scrambling is required. There are two entrance points to the trail, I started from the Visitors Center. It was a well worth adventure which I was happy to find a hiking partner at the trailhead because Shannon sat this one out. If you like Echo Canyon but are looking for a bit more adventure, this is your ticket.

• Silver Spur Meadow Trail, as with the other lower level trails, is dog friendly so we took the pups on this one and it was a ton of fun for all of us. This flat trail goes through Faraway Ranch and provides a lot of history about the Chiricahua Apaches and other early settlers in the region. A huge bonus was sightings of several White Tail Deer and a huge pack (there were dozens) of Coati. These furry animals are native to South America and are related to the Racoon. A first for us.

We heard rumors that they were considering redesignating this park from a National Monument to the 64th National Park. For what it’s worth, it gets our vote.

Cave Creek Canyon & Portal

Just before the entrance of Chiricahua National Monument is a dirt and gravel road called Pinery Canyon Road. This backroad takes a beautiful path through the Chiricahua Mountains to the (very) small town of Portal Arizona on the other side. This was a triple treat for us. The drive is spectacular in itself and Portal was a great stop at the end. We relaxed on the open patio at the Portal Store, Cafe & Lodge with the dogs and had a delicious grilled cheese sandwich and a bowl of homemade tomato soup.

Then for the trifecta was Cave Creek Canyon, a U.S. Forest Service location. Most locals don’t know this by name and simply refer to it as an extension of Portal. In season it is world-class birding destination and home to 370 bird species. We’re not much birders, but it sure was a beautiful place to drive through and do a little light hiking before we headed back on Pinery Canyon Road.

Cochise Stronghold

Cochise Stronghold is a rugged area in the Dragoon Mountains, named after the Chiricahua Apache leader, Cochise, who used the terrain as a refuge against his enemies. An interpretive trail at the campground gives some great history of the area and is a very pleasant walk. We stopped and talked to a local couple while there. He was a descendant of the Chiricahua Apaches and had ties to Cochise, so no doubt this brought some life and relevance to the stop.

The Cochise Trail #279 is the prized hike in the area. It climbs to 5,900 feet to the Stronghold Divide and then down to the other side. We decided to do this hike a little different and highly recommend it to anyone with a capable truck or SUV. Middlemarch Road, a gravel road connecting this area all the way to Tombstone, is the starting point and brings you to the backside of the Stronghold. From there, you connect up with Stronghold Canyon Trail, which gets a little rougher in spots. The beauty of this path is that it takes you on the backside of the Dragoon Mountains with much more expansive views, quite incredible actually. Stronghold Canyon Trail dead ends at the trailhead for Cochise Trail #279, on the backside. This is where we did the hike to the divide. The hike itself is a bit shorter and less elevation gain then from the other side and immerses you even further into the amazing landscape.

China Camp Trail

For a little more off-road adventure, we found this outstanding trail right off of Middlemarch Road in the Dragoon Mountains. It’s only about six miles or so round trip so it’s not a long adventure but it certainly is not short on excitement. It climbs to China Peak along a narrow shelf road with steep drop-offs to the valley below. We were glad we didn’t meet anyone else on the trail because there are not many spots to pass. You’ll need a capable 4WD vehicle for this trail – and if you do, don’t miss it.

Pearce is a special place and is well worth a visit for a few days or even a few months. If you’re an RV’er look up Greg and Cindy at Goldminers RV Park, they will treat you like family. But even if you’re just passing through at least make a stop to see Mike and Sheri at Under His Wing 333 for some homemade ice cream or an amazing cup of joe (or a combination of both). For our new friends in Pearce – we will see you again soon.

Be sure to check out all of our pictures from the area.