Redwood National and State Parks

Imagine standing among 35-foot skyscrapers in a city over 1,500 years old. But instead of buildings made of glass and steel they are actually living trees. Trees, some over 20 feet wide at the base, standing tall like giants in a tranquil forest alive with ferns and mosses and gentle streams. Welcome to the redwood forests of northern California.

What allows these beautiful redwoods to thrive and grow so large here isn’t completely understood, but this perfect ecosystem of soil, temperature and fog, give life to some of the largest trees in the world. As you walk through the forests of Redwood National and State Parks (RNSP), everything, including yourself, seems so small. Nature is not perfect and neither are the redwood forests, subjected to both the forces of natures and man. However, these imperfections in the forest is what encompass the circle of life and what makes these forests so impressive. Fallen or cut trees are the basis for ferns, mosses and other trees to grow. And it’s the resiliency of these redwoods that’s equally impressive. The entire center of a tree can be burned out yet the tree still flourishes.

When we were planning this trip it was very confusing to understand the boundaries of the park, or in this case “parks”. In 1994 the California Department of Parks and Recreation and the National Parks Service entered into a cooperative agreement to jointly manage the Redwood National Park along with Del Norte, Jedediah Smith, and Prairie Creek Redwood State Parks as one. Admittingly, once we got here it wasn’t any less confusing understanding where one area ends and the other begins. Adding to the confusion are other nearby parks that aren’t officially part of RNSP but equally inclusive to the redwood forests, including Humboldt Redwoods State Park to the south. In fact, the entire Humboldt County region could unofficially be considered part of the park. In the scope of this blog, we will be including the entire area of Humboldt County and up to the Oregon border as what we will simply term, “the redwoods”.

AVENUE OF THE GIANTS AND SOUTHERN HUMBOLDT COUNTY REGION

Our first stop in the redwoods was at Ancient Redwoods RV Park, a small private RV park right along the Avenue of the Giants in Redcrest, CA. It was an epic spot to spend a week, literally in the middle of the redwood forest. Although far to the south from the RNSP, we found the redwoods in this are to be some of the biggest we found, and the hikes some of the most beautiful. We also discovered some other amazing spots in this area from the southern Humboldt County line up to Eureka.

Avenue of the Giants

Ah, the road that has been called the finest forest drive in the world! This 31 mile road parallels 101in a much more scenic manner. The huge redwoods are literally from white line to white line. It’s a drive that you should take your time with and exert extreme caution in doing so. The road also cuts right through Humboldt Redwoods State Park and access to many great hikes.

Founders Grove Nature Loop Trail

This is one of three short but amazing hikes we did on the Humboldt Redwoods State Park and our initial introduction to the redwood forests. The huge trees and imperfectness of the forest mixed in with fallen trees and burns was simply amazing.

Rockefeller Loop

The second short hike in Humboldt continued the amazement and peacefulness of this area. Being here early in the season in April just made the experience that much better.

Big Trees Loop Trail

This was the third of three short hikes we did in Humboldt and by far the most… interesting. We couldn’t find the crossing over the river to get to the trail so first hiked part of Bull Creek Trail. We then determined that the seasonal bridge had not yet been installed over the river… but I found another, uh, bridge. Sometimes a fallen tree has a whole new purpose, and in this case it’s purpose was a bridge. It was a little crazy but did get me to the other side of the river where I was able to do the short hike and see the Giant Tree.

Drury-Chaney Trail

As we traveled further up Avenue of the Giants, we stumbled on this popular hike. It’s just over two miles and another easy level hike through the redwood forest. What’s nice about this area is that you don’t have to venture far to experience it.

Shrine Drive Thru Tree

Okay, $15 is probably a bit much to drive through a tree but… did I say “drive through a tree”? what we didn’t realize until after we drove through it (several times) is that the tree has seen its better days and is being held up by guide wires. You might want to check this out while it lasts, if you dare. They are also very creative with how they turned old redwood stumps into tree houses.

Shelter Cove and the Lost Coast

The Lost Coast is northern California’s most remote coastline, an area so rugged that when they built Highway 1 they diverted it inland away from this coastline. There is a narrow and winding road that leads you back into the area and the small seaside oasis of Shelter Cove that some 700 people call home. There are also some small lodges and B&B’s which makes this place a great destination to escape for a long weekend or so. The shoreline is gorgeous and the highlight is Black Sands Beach. The soft black sand, rugged rocks and big waves makes this one of the most beautiful beaches we have ever been to. After a walk on the beach we went over to Surf Point Coffee & Bistro for a latte and ended up ordering mimosa flights and sat on the back deck overlooking the ocean enjoying our beverages. Throw in a historic lighthouse, and it was a pretty good day!

Redwood Skywalk at Sequoia Park Zoo

Sequoia Park zoo is a small facility in Eureka with a really cool new feature. They recently completed a series of elevated boardwalks and suspension bridges through the redwood forest. The Redwood Skywalk is an amazing experience and unique way to explore the redwoods from high above.

Scenic Highway 36

Everyone enjoys a good scenic drive and highway 36 does not disappoint. This road, famous by motorcyclist, traverses 140 miles eastward from the coast and is said to have 1,811 curves. We even found a couple state and county parks to stop at along the way on the 50 mile section that we traveled.

NATIONAL AND STATE PARKS REGION

Our second stop in the redwoods was at Golden Bear RV Park in Klamath, CA. The view out our front window for two weeks was the Klamath River where an occasional Sea Otter or Seal would entertain us. The was a great central location to explore all of the parks in the RNSP.

Karl Knapp Trail

We hiked this trail right in the middle of the Prairie Creek State Park area off of Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway. We made this a loop, taking Karl Knapp to the Visitors Center and then returning back on Cathedral Tree Trail. The first part was a beautiful flat trail with old growth redwoods and plush greenery. the return path was a bit more challenging with some ups and downs and lots of roots on the trail. At the end of the trail (or beginning if you cheat) is the Big Tree, a 1,500 year old 286 foot tall redwood with a diameter of almost 24 feet!

Trillium Falls Trail

We really enjoyed this trail also in the Prairie Creek State Park. It’s just under 3 miles and we took it clockwise so the payoff with the waterfall was at the end. There are some ups and downs in elevation and exposed roots along the trail but nothing too bad. The creek meanders along the trail and then leads to the small waterfall which was gorgeous!

Roosevelt Elk Viewing

At the Trillium Falls trailhead is the Elk Meadow Picnic Area and a great place to see some of the many Roosevelt Elk in the area, especially early or late in the day. The meadow out in front of the Prairie Creek Visitors Center up the road is also a good place to see the elk. We stumbled upon a large heard just south of Elk Meadow where Prairie Creek crosses 101. There were dozens of them right off the road at the creek bed!

Fern Canyon Loop

This is one of those unique hikes. What it lacks in distance it makes up for in adventure and the adventure starts with the drive to the trailhead. The eight mile drive down Davison Road from the Elk Meadow Picnic Area is a narrow winding road with lots of potholes and a couple small creek crossings. Any truck or SUV can do it but take it slow. The trail, featured in the second Jurassic Park film, goes along and through a creek into a canyon with beautiful weeping walls and ferns. Whether you challenge yourself to stay dry or simply walk through the creek, the unique experience will be well worth it.

Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail

This is a pleasant, easy hike through some old growth redwoods a little further inland and at a higher altitude so it lacks some of the rainforest look that the coastal areas provide. The grove was dedicated to former first lady, Lady Bird Johnson in 1969.

Bald Hills Road

When you finish the Lady Bird hike, continue down Bald Hill Road, which is very scenic, heading up to around 2,300 feet in elevation. The Redwood Creek Overlook has an amazing view from a vantage point high above the redwood forests and an ocean view in the far distance. Fourteen miles from the Lady Bird Johnson trail is the Lyons Ranch Historic site and a good point to turn around.

Tall Trees Grove Loop Trail

As you drive down Bald Hills Road you will come to the turnoff for the Tall Trees trail. This hike requires a (free) permit to limit the traffic down the 6 mile gravel road to the trailhead. It’s another great hike, but the 800 foot accent on the return is a bit of a workout.

Klamath Tour Thru Tree

This might just be the best five bucks you can spend. Drive your vehicle through a redwood tree? Heck yea! It’s conveniently located right in Klamath a short distance from 101.

Klamath River Overlook

This is where the Klamath river spills into the Pacific Ocean. Requa Road takes you high up to a an overlook with great views of the coastline and the mouth of the river. This is a spectacular spot to take in a sunset.

World War II “Farm” Buildings

A short back road drive on the other side of the Klamath River has a big payoff, besides the amazing views. After Pearl Harbor was bombed and to guard against enemy invasion, the U.S. Army built built structures that were meant to appear as farm buildings. They were actually early warning radar stations, and even housed two 50-caliber anti-aircraft machine guns. You can find these building along Coastal Drive on the southern side of the Klamath River.

Crescent Beach

We went here on low tide and came back a second time with the dogs. The beach is huge with a gradual drop-off to the water, so a much safer beach for swimming. We found lots of sand dollars along the way.

Enderts Beach

As you continue down Enderts Beach Road from Crescent Beach, first stop at the Crescent Beach Overlook for another vantage point of where you just came from. At the end of the road is the trailhead for the Coastal Trail which has a cutoff to Enderts Beach. The short hike takes you to this amazing beach and an awesome place for tide pool exploring during low tide. This was like scuba diving on land with all of the starfish and sea urchins!

Battery Point Lighthouse

Located in Crescent City and also known as Crescent City Light Station, this lighthouse first lit its oil lamps on December 10, 1856. It has survived numerous storms and the 1964 tsunami and still operates today.

Short Hikes in Jedediah State Park

The Jedediah part of the park is a bit more remote than the other parts, but still easy to access. We hiked the Simpson-Reed and the Stout Grove trails which gave us a good taste of yet another amazing area of the redwoods.

Boy Scout Tree Trail

This moderately challenging hike is also in the Jedediah State Park but was one we didn’t get a chance to do. It goes through an old growth redwood grove and there’s even a waterfall at the end. Apparently it was made famous by a picture of a Boy Scout troop encircling a tree with hands linked together.

Howland Hills Road

This dirt road goes right through the heart of Jedediah State Park. It’s narrow and winds right through the big redwoods but any vehicle can drive it. We made a big loop, combining Highway 199 and Howland Hills Road. It’s a part of the park not to be missed, whether you’re hiking or just driving through.

Sue-meg State Park

A tip from a park ranger led us to this state park further south down 101 and actually not part of the redwood park system. Wedding Rock is well worth checking out. This large rock structure along the coastline has a trail to the top in what I assume is a popular place to exchange wedding vows. Agate Beach is a beautiful black sand beach that makes for a great stroll as well.

SIDE TRIP TO BROOKINGS

We call this a cheater day when we venture near our next destination before our official travel day. We heard so many good things about Brookings Oregon and it was only an hour from us so we made a day trip. Brookings is a coastal harbor town on the Chetco River in far southern Oregon. Fresh seafood is plentiful in this town and we had a great early dinner at Catalyst Seafood. The crab cakes, clam chowder and fish and chips were all fantastic.

Azalea Park has a beautiful display of azaleas within a small trail. If you’re used to azaleas in the south, these will blow you away, they are huge! There are several seaside parks in town but we continued the drive north a little further.

North from Brookings is the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor, a 12-mile odyssey of one stunning view after another with beaches and hiking trails to explore. There are multiple well marked pull-outs along the way, some providing amazing views right from the parking area and others offering a short hike. The coastline is absolutely gorgeous along the Oregon coast. Our favorite beaches were Harris Beach and Lone Ranch Beach, and the viewpoints that blew us away the most were Natural Bridges and Arch Rock.

Redwood National and State Parks along with the surrounding areas throughout Humboldt County are truly a spectacle of nature at its best. The lack of park boundaries and entrance gates just adds to the immenseness of the area. The enormity of these trees and the life that spawns from within the forest is just so amazing. And in typical National Park fashion, the uniqueness of seeing something first-hand that is like few other places on the planet is quite surreal. I didn’t find that one spot (normally a long hike) that just takes the amazing over the top to another level, but in retrospect, that’s not what this is about. It’s about the tranquility of the redwood forest and being among these giant living trees that have been around for 1,500 years or more. That’s 524 AD!

Be sure to check out all of our pictures from the redwoods.