Williamsburg – Jamestown – Yorktown: America’s Historic Triangle

A visit to America’s Historic Triangle in Virginia is like stepping into a real-life 17th and 18th century storybook. A story with a beginning, a middle and… well another beginning. Except this storybook is actually real, you are where it all took place, with original (and meticulously restored) structures, and historical interpreters playing real life roles as if you just stepped back in time. The towns of Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown that comprise America’s Historic Triangle collectively represent the most historic time in our American history, for this is how and where our great country began.

It started in Jamestown in the year 1607 when three English ships set sail to the New World. John Smith led the expedition of what became the first permanent English settlement in North America. Many years of discovery, turmoil and descent followed and ultimately the settlement moved to Williamsburg in 1699. The Commonwealth of Virginia, as it became named, was torn between those serving the British King and those fighting for independence. Eventually the American Revolutionary War ensued in 1775 between the American Colonists (Patriots) and Great Britain. Even Thomas Jefferson’s drafting of the Declaration of Independence in 1776 could not guarantee the American Colonists their independence. It wasn’t until 1781 when General George Washington troops, aided by French allies defeated British General Charles Cornwallis’s army at the battle of Yorktown.

All of this history could have been just left to history books if it wasn’t for Rev. W.A.R. Goodwin’s vision and determination to preserve and restore the historical town of Williamsburg. In 1926 with this vision and funding from John D. Rockefeller Jr. the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation was established. Over the next 15 years 89 original buildings were preserved or restored, and another 300 additional buildings were reconstructed in Williamsburg based on historical records, maps, and archaeology. There are several other foundations along with the National Park Service (NPS) that have done similar restoration work in Jamestown and Yorktown, dating back to 1889. So, today you can visit the original colony site in Historic Jamestowne on the James River and wonder what it must have been like being one of the first colonist. You can drive through the Yorktown Battlefield where our independence took hold, and you can walk down the streets of Colonial Williamsburg and be transformed to the year 1775.

It doesn’t really matter which order you visit the three areas but if you want to experience the story in chronological order, then start with Jamestown, then Williamsburg and end with Yorktown. But don’t worry if you’re tempted to start with Williamsburg as we did, the pieces will still all fit together nicely. I guess in the end there’s no right or wrong way, so do it your way. We stayed at American Heritage RV Park in Williamsburg and were within 15-30 minutes from everywhere and found it was very easy to get from one location to the other. Oh, and if it’s raining, don’t worry there are plenty of indoor venues, you might just have to adjust your plans accordingly.

TIP: There are six separate physical locations within the America’s Historic Triangle and they all have a separate admission fee. If you’re planning on visiting them all (and you should) consider purchasing an America’s Historic Triangle ticket rather than individual tickets. This is a great convenience, giving you access to all of the attractions for seven consecutive days, and will save you some money over individual tickets. Keep in mind, two of the sites are NPS operated but even if you already have a National Park pass, the Triangle ticket will still pay for itself. In addition, I recommend purchasing the Triangle tickets From the Colonial Williamsburg website (or in person) to avoid issues with were you can enact your ticket in person. Ask me how I know?

Jamestown

There are two locations in Jamestown that you will want to visit which recount those early days that started in 1607, Jamestown Settlement and Historic Jamestowne. You can do this in a day but be prepared as it will be a full day.

Jamestown Settlement consists of indoor and outdoor exhibits. The indoor museum is extremely informative and engaging. Take your time here, learn and be sure to watch the short movie. This is probably a bit smaller than some of the other museums, therefore won’t take quite as much time. When you’re done, walk out the back doors to the outdoor exhibits.

The first thing you will come upon outdoors is a re-created Powhatan Indian village. Historical interpreters will provide a better understanding of the importance of the Powhatan tribe during this time and the exhibits will give you a better understanding of how they lived.

Walking a little further, you come to the James River where you will see replicas of the three ships that first sailed here, Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery. Although replicas, all three ships are fully capable sailing vessels and do leave the dock occasionally. It’s a lot of fun boarding the ships and talking to crew members.

As you head back towards the museum, you will come to a reconstructed version of the triangular fort that the English settlers built in 1607. Here you can tour the buildings and interact with more historical interpreters. This also sets context for what you will see at your next stop.

A short drive will get you to Jamestown Island and Historic Jamestowne. Although is wasn’t an island back in the day, this is the actual site of the first English settlement in 1607. This is also where things get a little confusing. There are two parts of Historic Jamestowne, New Town Site which is run by the NPS, and James Fort Archaeological Site which is run by Preservation Virginia. Although adjacent to each other, each side has a separate admission fee so this is where your Triangle ticket will come in handy.

There is a walking path through the New Town Site which has recovered remnants of some of the early homes that were built there by these early English setters. It’s a very pleasant walk along the river and you can’t help but think how life here over 400 years ago might have been. It might be hard to imagine, but this will certainly give you a better sense of it.

As you finish the New Town Site loop you will come to the entrance of the Fort James Archaeological Site and a fee booth where they will check your pass. Where you are entering now is not only the original fort location that you saw the replica of earlier, but also an active archaeological site. They have done (and continue to do) immense work here uncovering history, including preserving a portion of the church that was still standing, A replica church as built around the original structure using the same foundation lines. The old structure meets up with the new and glass panels on the ground give you a look below, like a passage to the past.

As you walk the rest of the grounds you will see many other active dig sites. Who knows, maybe you will be there when they discover another historical item! Speaking of, there is also a small archaeological museum here as well, where many of the items being excavated can be seen, including some human remains.

Jamestown’s days came to an end in 1699 after the statehouse burned down again (not the first time) and the decision was made to move the capital to Williamsburg, called Middle Plantation at that time. It was determined that Williamsburg had better elevation, healthier living conditions, and was more centrally located.

Williamsburg

Colonial Williamsburg is one of the most incredible preservation and restoration historical projects that you will ever experience. Eighty-nine original buildings have been restored and over 300 more reconstructed along Duke of Gloucester Street and adjoining side streets. Dukes of Gloucester Street stretches for 1 mile from the Capitol building on the east end through the heart of Colonial Williamsburg to William & Mary’s campus and Merchants Square on the west end. All-in-all Colonial Williamsburg covers about 301 acres.

When you stroll into Colonial Williamsburg, you are entering the year 1775. Every building has been restored, from inside and out, to how it was in this year per historical records. Historical interpreters that you encounter and interact with in the street, in various trade shops and government buildings speak as if they are currently living in the year 1775. They aren’t simply actors; they are professional historians that have an immense amount of knowledge. Ask them any question and they will not only answer it, but several questions surrounding that question which you hadn’t even thought of yet.

There’s a lot to see in Colonial Williamsburg so lets cover where you should consider starting and how best to get around before we get too carried away. Not surprisingly, your best starting point is the Visitor Center. The staff there is very helpful and will provide you with a map and make suggestions based on your preferences and time allotment. This is also where you can get your tickets, whether prepaid or purchasing locally. While you are there, watch the short movie which is an excellent precursor to what you’re about to experience.

Getting around Colonial Williamsburg does require significant walking one way or another but it’s not as bad as it might seem considering how large it is. I guess you’re more distracted by what’s going on around you to pay attention to how much walking you’re actually doing. However, there is a free bus that provides a hop-on, hop-off service with many stops around the perimeter, including the Visitor Center. Some people even opt for a horse drawn carriage ride (the ultimate experience) which also provides a lot of history along the way from the driver. Oh, by the way, plan on spending $10 per day on parking at any of the area city lots (it was clearly pointed out to us that these lots are not run by the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation).

So, you now have a feel for what it is and how to get around, but what are the top things to see and do, you ask? If you’re a first-time visitor the (somewhat helpful) map identifies recommended sites for first time visitors, so you’ll have that. There’s also the Colonial Williamsburg website and app, but those can be difficult to navigate. But fear not, I’ll provide some of our highlights here.

It was raining on our first full day in town, but we couldn’t wait to get to Williamsburg (breaking our own rule of starting at Jamestown). Good thing we decided to brave the messy weather because I got sick later in the week and we lost a couple of days then. Since it was raining we parked at the Visitor Center and took the bus first to the Capitol building since it’s an inside tour. The tour was very informative (again, given in first person from that time) and the architecture and decor were fascinating. An iconic picture out front of the Capitol building as you look down Dukes of Gloucester Street is a must do before you leave.

We then boarded the bus again and headed to the Art Museums of Colonial Williamsburg, another inside activity. This is actually a combination of multiple museums under one roof. You can spend hours here, as we did, where you can see an amazing display of everything from early American and British artwork and furnishings to weapons and scientific instruments. Check out the Hennage Auditorium schedule while you’re there. We saw an incredible presentation entitled The Marquis’s Spy, the story of an enslaved Virginian turned spy, named James Armistead Lafayette. James tells the story of how he infiltrated British forces by posing as a servant to British General Cornwallis and then provided the Marquis de Lafayette with critical intelligence, including the movement of British troops and fortifications, which contributed to the American victory at the Battle of Yorktown.

As you walk through the streets when the raindrops stop falling, things come to life. You can simply walk around and take it all in and are sure to stumble upon a cannon firing demonstration or some other street activity, or you can check the schedule for specific activity times and dates. There are several things in particular that you will want to see, but be aware schedules change daily and not everything is open every day. Look for the Grand Union flags flying in front of buildings, which represents that they are open. Here’s a short list of other attractions, you should seriously consider.

Raleigh Tavern

This tour will give you a better understanding of the importance of taverns back in these days. It was so much more than just a place to get a drink. We also saw an amazing reenactment in the street in front of the tavern at the end of the day called 1775 the Gale From the North. Check the schedule, and don’t miss this one!

Colonial Williamsburg Courthouse

You can actually participate in a “real” court case reenactment to get a better feel for the process and what types of things required the court’s action back then. Everything is based on real cases found in historical records and in the real court building. There’s often an artillery demonstration on the lawn adjacent to the courthouse so keep that in mind.

Peyton Randolph House

There are several houses that you can take tours of, and this one was especially interesting. This was the house of Sir John Randolph, a distinguished lawyer and Speaker of the House of Burgesses. He later left the house to his son Peyton. They were one of Virginia’s most influential families.

Governor’s Palace

This may be #1 on the list, the Governor’s Palace is amazing! The tour will take you through all of the rooms on the first floor and give you some great insights. In 1775 this was the home of John Murray, more commonly known as Lord Dunmore, and the last governor to serve the King before Virginia became independent. Lord Dunmore’s role in all of this is very interesting. When you’re done with the tour check out the cellar and don’t miss the gorgeous garden in back and the hedge maze.

Historic Trades

Stop in as many of the trade shops as you can and remember, they are not all open on the same day. We visited the Cook, Wig Maker, Leather Breeches & Shoemaker and Apothecary. These historical interpreters are using all of the same techniques that they used in the 18th century. You might also want to check out the Blacksmith, Carpenter, Brickmaker and so many more.

William & Mary Campus

The college, founded in 1693 by royal charter from King William III and Queen Mary II, was one of the original buildings in Williamsburg, which gives you an idea of the importance that was put on education back then. This is the second-oldest college in the United States, behind Harvard. This is also where prominent figures such as Thomas Jefferson got his formal education. Self-guided tours of the Wren building are available within this active campus, and we were told not to miss the Crim Dell Bridge out back. I seem to have a long trend of missing college, and this is yet another one I missed. We simply ran out of time.

There’s so much more offered in Colonial Williamsburg. We haven’t even talked about Market Square with over 40 shops and merchants and the famous Cheese Shop or the Saturday Farmers Market. There are so many great places to eat including the Kings Arms and Christiana Campbell’s historical taverns. Yeah, we missed those too but had a great meal at the Second Street American Bistro which was based on a tip from a nice lady at the Visitor Center.

So how much time do you need at Historical Williamsburg? I’ll answer the question this way: based on a a show of hands at several tours, it appeared that the majority of folks were repeat visitors. You see, this isn’t a one and done kind of place, there’s just too much to see and things keep changing and new things get added. But, for a first-time visit, I would recommend allocating three full days to Colonial Williamsburg. This should be enough time to experience it well yet be thirsty for a return trip.

Tensions grew greater in Williamsburg between those wanting to continue to serve the King and those wanting their independence. In 1775 the American Revolutionary War broke out between the American Colonists (Patriots) and Great Britain. The bloody war lasted until 1781, culminating in Yorktown Virginia.

Yorktown

The history of the great battle of Yorktown where General Charles Cornwallis’s army surrendered to American Patriots can be seen in two areas, the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown and the Yorktown Battlefield itself. Like Jamestown, this can all be done in one full day.

The American Revolution Museum is another great expression of the history of the American Revolution. It might seem like museum overload (and in some ways it can be) but actually the more you immerse yourself into this the more the story comes to life. This is another fascinating museum and you should start with the 4D film, Liberty Fever, a reenactment of the battle. After visiting the museum step outside to the living historical exhibits.

Outside you can visit a small army encampment and talk to some of the historical interpreters. Just down from there is a revolutionary era farm. Stroll through the farm and check out the different buildings and never miss a chance to interact with one of the historical interpreters. There’s a couple trade shops there as well.

Driving just a little further on the other side of the historic town will bring you to the National Park Service (NPS) Visitor Center for the Yorktown Battlefield. If you don’t have a Triangle ticket or an NPS pass already, there will be an additional admission to access the battlefield.

The battlefield is a self guided driving tour with the help of the Yorktown Tour Guide app which provides a GPS enabled audio tour with detailed insight as you arrive at the different stopping points. Make sure you have the app downloaded on your phone before you arrive.

The tour will take you to all of the pertinent areas of the battlefield including defense lines, batteries and redoubts, or earth berms, that they had built for cover. In many of the areas you can get out and walk around a bit on some short trails and get right in the middle of it. Watch out for unfriendly fire though!

The second half of the driving tour takes you through the allied encampments. You should do this part as well, if for no other reason that it is a very pretty drive through the forest. But it’s much more than that. You will see where the French and American Artillery parks were, General Washington’s headquarters and a French cemetery, along with other key historical points. The entire tour is a great way to relive this historic battle and we are so fortunate that it has been preserved for us to do so.

Yorktown also consists of a small historic town and quaint riverfront. It was very pleasant walking down Main Street checking out some of the structures and amazing homes and then ending at the Victory Monument, commemorating the battle. Be sure to stop at Mobjack Bay Coffee Roasters and Petite Cafe, where you can enjoy a delicious cup of coffee upstairs in a historic 1720 home. Hungry? Head over to Yorktown Pub along the river, where both the locals and tourists go for a good meal.

I know this was a long read and possibly my longest blog yet but consider this, we have just covered 174 years of history including how, when and where we began in this country and what it took to get to where we are today. We are the land of the free because of the brave and relentless people that came before us fighting for the rights of the people, so that all men (women and children) can be treated equally. Our forefathers have given us the opportunity for life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. Cherish it, celebrate it, work to make it even better and visit the America’s Historic Triangle to relive our beginnings. You will discover the problems and challenges they had and overcame in the early years of our country. You will learn that it was never perfect, far from it. You will learn that not everything done back then was right (at least by today’s standards). But you will also learn how their hearts and souls were committed to a democracy governed by the people, for the people and they were willing to work hard, persevering through challenges along the way. Most importantly you will learn that foundationally the problems and challenges in our country today aren’t that much different from then. However, what is different is that we have a great advantage over our forefathers in that we have their history to learn from.

Be sure to check out all of our pictures from America’s Historic Triangle.