Yellowstone

Yellowstone National Park is like nowhere else on Earth. Proclaimed the first National park in 1872 by President Ulysses S, Grant, the park turned 150 years old this year. We had the great privilege of visiting the park for two weeks towards the end of May. With 2.2 million acres of amazing beauty to discover, we are glad we allocated the time we did.

Coming from the Tetons, Yellowstone is very different. We almost felt we had the Tetons all to ourselves in early May, but we found the crowds in Yellowstone, although not quite a peak season level. The other difference was how built up and structured things were. Instead of primitive roads and pathways to the various sites, Yellowstone encompasses miles and miles of wooden boardwalks and other improved pathways to get around. There are viewing structures and lodges and such whereas sometimes you feel like you are in an amusement park or zoo rather than a national park. The National Park has done this to preserve the hydrothermal features and to protect the visitors. The flipside of this is that you can easily be lulled into a false sense of security when encountering wildlife. Folks need to understand that these are wild animals and you should always respect their space. Please limit the urge for that selfie.

TIP: If you plan on visiting both Yellowstone and Grand Tetons, I recommend starting in Yellowstone and then go to the Tetons second if it logistically makes sense. The natural seclusion of the Tetons will be even more inviting after the crowds and amusement park feel that Yellowstone tends to have. The exception to this would be if you are visiting at the start of the season in May as we did. In this case it is necessary to start in the Tetons since Yellowstone will open a week or two later.

Speaking of wildlife, it is abundant in the park. Bison can almost always be encountered and typically right at (or on) the roadside. There were plenty of calves to be seen as well, being early in the season. We saw Black Beers and Grizzlies. In fact, we had a pretty (safe, thanks to the Rangers) close encounter of a mama Black Beer and her two cubs one day. Elk, Pronghorn, Deer, Fox, Wolves and more can be seen in the park as you drive around… and we saw pretty much everything there is to see during our visit.

Yellowstone is like multiple parks in one and is constructed in a figure eight road path with a lower loop and an upper loop. Although the geysers get most of the attention, there is actually considerably more to see. I’ll break this down into the five key areas:

• Geyser Basin
• Canyon Village
• Mammoth Hot Springs
• Lamar Valley
• Yellowstone Lake

Geyser Basin

Geyser basin, includes the lower, midway and upper basins and is on the western side of the lower loop of the park. This is where most of the hydrothermal features are and home to the most famous one, Old Faithful, which is in the Upper Geyser Basin. Old Faithful Village is a park in itself with a visitors center, hotel, shops and the highest concentration of geysers in the park – around 150. The Old Faithful Lodge is a must see while there. What’s great about Old Faithful is how predictable the eruption is, so you always have a chance to see this very large and famous geyser in action. Then you can walk along the boardwalk to the many other hydrothermal features in the Upper Basin, including fumaroles (steam vents), and hot springs. One of our favorite geysers in this area was Riverside which is on the side of a river and is amazing when it erupts as we were fortunate enough to see.

TIP: Position yourself upwind when viewing the Old Faithful eruption so you see the actual water spout and not just the steam.

There is much more in geyser basin than Old Faithful village and I would encourage you to venture further, hence the reason this section is a bit longer than the others. Its also important to understand just how rare these features are, specifically geysers which involve multiple hydrothermal features all coming together to make them happen. With over 10,000 hydrothermal features and 50% of the geysers on the planet in Yellowstone, you start to get the idea of just how special this place is. Some of our favorite spots that we highly recommend visiting, in order from south to north, are:

• Kepler Cascades – attractive waterfall that drop 150 feet and accessible from a roadside pullout
• Biscuit Basin – Sapphire pool is the highlight of this area as well as amazing other hydrothermal features. A short boardwalk meanders through the basin.
• Fairy Falls – a 5 mile hike to a 197 foot waterfall into a small pool/cave in a very secluded area. Or if you would like to take the 9 mile hike version which includes a long gravel road and wet marshy area with lots of Bison dung, you can do that too (don’t ask how I know that)
• Midway Geyser Basin – smaller basin but a must see, especially the Grand Prismatic Spring which exhibits amazing colors and is the largest hot spring in the park
• Fountain Paint Pot – a very nice easy hike to multiple hydrothermal features including Mudpots which you definitely need to see
• Firehole Canyon Road – This beautiful short 2 mile loop off of the lower loop road is well worth the side trip which includes Firehole Falls
• Beryl Springs – you’ll see the steam rising from the road ahead for this amazing blue hot spring. It’s a quick pullout and visit, as it sits right off the road.
• Gibbon Falls – as you start to approach some of the higher terrain of the park, you will come to this magnificent falls which drop 84 feet. There is a parking lot and short boardwalk right along the road.
• Artists Paintpots – easy 1 mile trail to colorful hots springs, boiling pools and boiling mudpots
• Norris Geyser Basin – this very popular area is the hottest geyser basin in the park (and world) with many hydrothermal features along two long boardwalk loops. There are several very notable geysers in this basin and I would consider another must see.

TIP: Please exercise extreme caution when visiting the hydrothermal features, especially with children. One slip off of the boardwalk or a wondering child could become catastrophic. You are walking next to scalding water, sometimes well over 200°F, and deep holes in the earth.

Canyon Village

This is my favorite part of the park and home to Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. What, Grand Canyon, isn’t that in Nevada? Although many people strictly relate Yellowstone to Geysers there’s actually so much more, including this magnificent canyon. Although not as grand in size as that one in Nevada, many say this canyon in Yellowstone is even more magnificent, and I couldn’t agree more.

If you’re traveling from the Geyser Basin or the west entrance, you will get to Canyon Village via Norris Canyon Road which is the connecting road in the center of the park. You’ll notice that the scenery changes along the way in this more desolate area of the park where there tends to be less people. When you reach Canyon Village you will turn right where you can reach two main roads for the north and south rims of the canyon. There is also one short road in-between called Brink of the Upper Falls.

Stop at every pull out along the way on all the roads, it is well worth it! Each stop provides different prospective of the canyon and the upper and lower falls. Arguably the most magnificent view is from the end of the south rim at Artist Point. This vantage point provides the grandest view of the complete canyon with the falls in the distance. If you think it looks familiar, it probably does, because many famous pictures have been painted of this spot.

If you’re into hiking, you can actually hike the entire north nd south rims and even get a more fulfilling experience. We chose to hike a portion of the Sublime trail from Artist Point, which is a magnificent hike.

TIP: I recommend visiting the Grand Canyon early in the day and exploring the south rim first, making it to Artist Point by around 9:30 in the morning. It’s said that this provides the best lighting for pictures and an opportunity for rainbows across the falls. From there venture to Brink of the Upper Falls and then the north rim.

Mammoth Hot Springs

Mammoth Hot Springs is located just inside the north entrance of the park, which is also the location of the park headquarters. The drive there from the south is one of the prettiest areas of the park, traversing across some of the higher plateaus. One quick diversion along the ways is the Hoodoos stop. Although not technically hoodoos, it is a magnificent display of boulders that looks like you’ve landed on another planet.

Once at the hot springs there is an upper and lower terrace. The upper terrace allows you to drive to various vantage points where you can get out and walk around. There is just so much variety in the different hot springs and odd rock formations. When you’re done with the upper terrace, drive around the bend to the lower terrace. Here you will park and walk to see the rest of the area within two miles of pathways. I preferred the lower terrace to the upper terrace and would recommend taking the time to explore, it seemed the further we went the more amazing the springs got.

TIP: The hot springs tend to get get crowded due to their popularity and proximity to the north park entrance so plan accordingly and if possible visit during off hours.

While you’re in the area you might want to stop by the visitor center or check out some of the historic sites. Or you might opt in for a short drive up to Gardiner Montana, as we did. It’s a beautiful short drive and a great little town. We had a very nice lunch at Cowboys Lodge and Grill.

Lamar Valley

The Lamar Valley is outside of the Grand Loop and towards the northeast entrance of the park and is known for its abundant wildlife. The drive from Canyon Village traverses across Dunraven pass and Mount Washburn. There’s lots of switchbacks and steep grades along this route with beautiful overlooks and side roads for the more adventurous if they are open during the time of year you are there. Shannon was glad they were not when we visited in May. Be sure to make a quick stop at Tower Falls along the way and then as you reach the junction if you have time visit Roosevelt Lodge, originally built for President Teddy Roosevelt in 1920.

Lamar Valley is yet another completely different area of the park from the other areas. Again, it’s a great place to see wildlife of all sorts including wolves… which happens to be the one animal that we did not see during our visit. Its a peaceful drive through the open valley, where you’re sure to see Elk and Pronghorn and anything else so keep your eyes peeled. There are a few sideroads along the way where you will see folks camping out waiting for the wildlife to come to them, a good practice.

TIP: Look for a side road on your left to Slough Creek. This is known to be a great spot to see wildlife and Wolves in particular.

If you want to continue your drive a little further, just outside of the northeast entrance are the towns of Silver Gate and Cooke City. These are tiny towns with a lot of character. We stopped in Silver Gate and had a wonderful lunch at Log Cabin Café and then ventured next door for a latte at Stop the Car Trading Post. Apparently, this is a very popular spot for locals who travel miles for their ice cream treats. We were just hoping for a little caffeine to help us get back over the pass.

Yellowstone Lake

Situated at 7,733 feet above sea level, Yellowstone Lake is the largest high elevation lake in North America. The 132 square mile lake is located in the southeast part of the park between Grant Village and Fishing Bridge. Lakes and mountains go together so well, and Yellowstone Lake is no exception. When we first arrived the lake was completely frozen over and then we are able to witness it completely thawing and looking more of a lake rather than a glacier.

The drive along the lake is very beautiful and peaceful. Veering off on Gull Point Road provides an even closer lake experience with plenty of places to pull over and even stick your toes in the water ice cold water. Thumb Lake is an extension of Yellowstone Lake at the western edge and is where Potts Hot Spring Basin Geyser Basin is. The contrast of the hot steaming water adjacent to the cold blue water of the lake is very cool to see. Also along the way in Lake Village is the Lake Yellowstone Hotel, a historic site built in 1891. You’ll know it by its bright yellow color.

On the northern edge of the lake is Fishing Bridge. This is a cool little area with the historic “fishing bridge” which is actually no longer for fishing. Go figure. If you’re an RV camper, this is where the only RV park in Yellowstone is that has full hookups and it is a very nice park.

TIP: Staying at Fishing Bridge RV Park is a great choice and will make getting around so much easier due to its convenient location right in the center of the park. However, try to reserve a spot in the newer section which is extremely nice and has ample room for all sizes of RV’s. The older section, in my opinion, is only viable for smaller campers.

Let’s talk about getting to Yellowstone, specifically in an RV. There are six entrances into Yellowstone National Park: North, Northeast, East, South and West. The West entrance is the most popular and also probably the most RV friendly route to the park. The Town of West Yellowstone, which has a little bit of everything, is the gateway to this entrance. The North (original) entrance is via the town of Gardiner. This is also an easy route in for an RV and gets you right to the park headquarters and Mammoth Hot Springs area. However, if you plan on venturing through the park from this location, use caution. The route south the Norris is very scenic and doable but a challenging one. The path east and south to Canyon village will take you over Dunraven pass where you will encounter high passes and steep grades. This requires extreme caution in an RV and probably best to avoid in larger rigs. The northeast entrance would require you driving the Beartooth Highway. Do yourself a favor if you are an RV’er, choose a different entrance and come back and drive the Beartooth scenic byway in your tow vehicle later. This would be a treacherous drive in an RV. The East entrance will have you coming in from Cody and the Bighorn Mountains. This is NOT a good route for RV’s either but if you are just compelled to, take 16 through the Bighorns rather than 14 or 14A. And finally, the South entrance is the way you would be coming if you are driving from the Tetons. You’ll want to make sure you are caffeinated up, but this will be no problem in an RV.

We stayed in Island Park, Idaho, about 15 miles outside of West Yellowstone. Traversing the park from the South entrance and out the West entrance to get to Island Park was no problem for us. This was a fairly convenient location as it was close enough to the park but far enough away for some solitude. The town of West Yellowstone has lots of shops and restaurants and even a museum and movie theater, which was great for date night and the new Top Gun movie. There are two restaurants in particular that we loved. The Buffalo Bar had great food and a great western atmosphere. There’s even an outside patio and live entertainment in the evenings. Based on a recommendation from a local we also tried Firehole Bar-B-Que Co.. The ribs were outstanding!

Yellowstone is an amazing place that everyone should visit at least once in their lifetime. The immensity of the park, natural beauty, rare hydrothermal features and the fact that it all sits on the top of a volcano that could theoretically (but not likely) erupt at any time, makes it so unusual and different from anywhere else on the planet. Allocate an appropriate amount of time to visit as much of the park as you can and include the Tetons in your trip, you won’t regret it.

TIP: To make navigating the park easier and minimizing the risk of missing key features, download the Gypsy Guide app. Once downloaded on your device, GPS coordinates align you to an informative and entertaining tour of the park, highlighting key stops along the way. Best ten bucks I’ve ever spent!

Check out our photos of Yellowstone.

ADDENDUM: We visited Yellowstone from May 25 to June 7, 2022 and covered nearly every square mile of the park. Starting three days after we left, from June 10-13 Yellowstone experienced what experts are calling an atmospheric river event. Unusually warm temperatures creating significant snow melt from late season storms combined with 2-3 inches of rain caused catastrophic and historic flooding. The flooding shattered previous record flooding levels of the Yellowstone River, washed out roads in the northern part of the park, sent houses and other structures down the river in a pile of rubble and isolated the towns of Gardiner and Cook City. 10,000 visitors in the park were evacuated and all entrances to the park were closed. It was said to be a 1 in 500 year event. After eight days of closure, damage assessment and some initial repairs, the south loop of the park, along with the West, East and South entrances, reopened on June 22 on a restricted basis. Sections of the northern loop will likely be closed for many months.

This was a catastrophic and very unfortunate event, but the park has survived and will recover. If you have plans to visit during the 2022 season, please familiarize yourself with the current restrictions, as I’m sure they will be dynamically changing.