Zion National Park

With Arizona clearly in our rear view mirror, we set our sights on Utah, and what an incredible first stop, Zion National Park. We met up with some friends that we shared the experience with and left 12 days later blown away by the beauty of the park and grateful for our new lifelong friendships.

Zion National Park is located in far Southwest Utah and it is absolutely stunning. The park does not require a timed entry system like some of the National Parks have moved to, but through most of the season the main road in the park is closed to private vehicles so you will need to take the park shuttle bus. Although parking at the visitor center can be challenging if you arrive late, for the most part we found the bus to be easy and convenient to get around the park. In fact, we took the bus the first day to initially survey the entire park and scope out the areas we wanted to come back to.

There are a variety of hikes at different distances and levels spanning from a short level walk to extreme climbing along ledges… and we did a bit of both. However, because of being there early in the season, along with record winter snowfall, The Narrows slot canyon trail was closed. Imagine hiking a trail in a river flowing at 600 cubic feet per second (CFS). Or put differently, navigating through 600 basketballs rolling fiercely at you every second. We will come back to do The Narrows another time, but let’s talk about all the great hikes we did do.

Emerald Pools

There’s a couple of ways to do this trail to see a series of three, lower, middle and upper, waterfalls. We recommend starting at the Kayenta Trail (Grotto bus #6) for the best experience and avoiding some of the crowds along the way. Your first turn off will be to the Lower Pools where you can actually walk behind the falls. Continuing up the trail you make it to the Upper Pools. this is a larger are where you can climb around the rocks. You then take the trail down, and hit the, less impressive, Middle Pools along the way and end the trail at the Zion Lodge. This was one of our favorite hikes in Zion.

The Narrows

Even though the slot canyon part of this trail is closed, it is well worth taking the easy Narrows Riverside Walk which is absolutely beautiful. Did I mention another waterfall along the way? Access to this trail is from the last bus stop, #9.

Scout Lookout

Scout Lookout is accessed from the Rim Trail (bus stop #6), which is a mostly paved trail to the lookout, but it is steep uphill all the way. This is also the trail to Angels Landing (more on that below). There are great views all the way up then you will get to a split where to the right you can watch the climbers on Angels Landing or go to the left for the official Scout Lookout overlook. The views are amazing there and you get a great vantage point of the entire Angels Landing peak. If you still have any breath left, you can continue on the Rim Trail for still quite a while but will need to backtrack to return to the trailhead.

Angels Landing

This hike, via the Rim Trail, requires a permit to climb to help disperse the crowds. You are climbing on a steep mountain ridge the entire way with the aid of chains – your lifeline. I had no intention of doing this hike due to the concern of meeting up with another hiker along the way and having to do the “chain gang dance” along the edge. Well… in an impromptu photo op with my aforementioned partner in crime, we (somehow) started the climb and before you know it made it to the saddle which is about a third of the way. We decided to stop there, knowing our wives were below thinking – well who knows what they were thinking, we didn’t even know what we were thinking. The climb was incredible and the view from this point was indescribable. Know your limits in life but always be open to, and grateful for, those who push you past your comfort zone.

Watchman

This trail is accessed directly from the Visitors Center, so no bus ride required. It is a moderate climb to a peak overlooking the area below. Be sure to take the loop at the top which provides beautiful views and places to stop along the way to dangle your feet over the edge if you so desire. I didn’t expect much from this hike but it far exceeded my expectations.

The Grotto

Looking for a easy flat trail or don’t feel like taking the bus back from the Rim Trail? Then this is a great easy trail or cool down that goes between bus stop #6 and the Lodge. Stop at the Lodge for a beverage or something to eat while you’re there.

Pa’rus Trail

This is another easy trail that traverses along the (roaring) Virgin River. It’s paved the entire way and goes between the Visitor Center and Canyon Junction (bus stop #3). You can also stop at the Museum along the way and then take the bus back from the Museum or Canyon Junction. It is also the only trail in the park that allows dogs.

Weeping Rock

This is a very short but steep trail to an amazing alcove and waterfall. Maybe it’s just “weeping” in the summer but this was a full fledged waterfall. Beautiful and well worth the short hike for anyone, probably the best bang for the least effort in the park. Bus stop #7 stops right at the trailhead.

Taylor Creek

Really fun hike with over 50 (not a typo) creek crossings along the way. This is located in the Kolob Canyon part of Zion National Park. You become a real expert in navigating the creek crossings, balancing on rocks to cross. You must take this hike to the end because there you will come to an incredible double arch that will take your breath away. Also along the way are two historical log cabins. Wear your high-top hiking boots and plan on getting your feet a little wet.

Zion Canyon Overlook

This hike is located just on the other side of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel and outside of the main part of the park. On the scenic drive to this hike you will see a large arch carved in the side of the mountain. Well this overlook hike goes to the top of the arch. We didn’t realize that until we were on top. Amazing hike with incredible views, but not for those who don’t do well on steep ledges.

There is much beauty to see directly from the windshield of your car as well. Highway 9 is the main road to the park but then goes beyond the west entrance all the way to Mount Carmel and through an amazing tunnel. There are a few places where you can stop along the way and get out of the car for a picture or two. Note for RV’ers, the tunnel has a 13′ 2″ clearance and requires a $15 permit to travel through it so that they can stop traffic the other way. You will need to drive in the center. No we didn’t.

For a bit more of a remote experience, try out Kolob Terrace Road which is a turn off of Highway 9 west of the park in Virgin. This gets you away from the crowds and is a very peaceful drive with a different vantage point of the Zion landscape. Along the way we stumbled on a small trail called Lambs Knoll which takes you into this amazing canyon that you can walk through and around. We even saw some folks rock climbing while we were there.

If you are feeling a little more adventurous, turn off of Kolob Terrace onto Smith Mesa Road. This is a dirt road, but accessible by most vehicles if you’re careful. Another beautiful road with rolling hills and local farms along the way with views of the snowy mountains to the west.

For you off road enthusiast, Sand Hollow is a must stop. Air down your tires and enjoy this off-road sand playground! We had an amazing time making it up to Top of the World and then coming back on Bobsled – think downhill, winding narrow banked trail with deep sand. Caution though, the trail markings are horrible and you can easily find yourself on a trail you don’t need to be on. Ask me how I know? Overall, an amazing place for some off-road fun and oh, did I mention the views? Wow!

Also worth mentioning is the Joshua Tree Scenic Byway, another OHV road, north of St. George. We took the Hollow Washington Road and Navajo Road trails off of this to make a fun loop along the way. Found a mountain top (21% grade) for a light lunch and glass of wine with our friends. It all made for a great daytrip.

The St. George area itself has a lot to offer. It’s a big little Town with just about everything and some interesting historical and entertainment districts. Pioneer Park is a fun spot for adventuring and good for the entire family. Next door is the Red Hills Desert Garden. It’s amazing how many beautiful things grow in the desert! Also just outside of St. George is Snow Canyon State Park. We didn’t have a chance to visit this park but we understand is beautiful and offers many hiking opportunities. We like to mix in some state parks during our visits so this was a miss for us and something to look forward to next time we are in the area.

Zion was everything we expected it to be and more. Within 30-45 minutes there’s something for everyone. It’s a place for golf enthusiast, hikers, climbers, off-roading, scenic drives and even some nightlife and shopping in nearby St. George. We will return, possibly in the Autumn, and hike The Narrows and check out Snow Canyon State Park. For now it’s off to Bryce Canyon National Park where we will meet up with some other friends.

Be sure to check out all of our pictures from Zion.