Great Smoky Mountains National Park

The most visited national park in the country lies along the ridge of the Great Smoky Mountains, bordering Tennessee and North Carolina. The mountain range is appropriately named due to its misty “smoke-like” atmosphere caused by plant emissions and humidity, rather than air pollution. Originally this was home to the indigenous Cherokee Nation people whereas the national park designation was established in 1934 to protect over 500,000 acres of the Great Smoky Mountains which now hosts approximately 12 million visitors a year. We both have briefly visited Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) in the past, but this was an opportunity to properly explore the park and surrounding areas.

GSMNP is fairly large and spread out with only primitive camping accommodations in the park, so most people stay to the north in the Gatlinburg area or in the less crowded, southern area of Cherokee and Bryson City. We opted for the latter, in a small private campground called Big Bear’s RV Park. Wherever you stay, be prepared for some long days exploring the park, as the path is a slow roll along two-lane winding roads with mountain vistas and flowing rivers.

TIP: If you are heading to Big Bear’s RV Park do not follow your GPS along Old River Road, instead continue down Highway 19 through town. Old River Road is a rustic narrow gravel road, not suitable for RV’s… even though we did survive it. Benefit from our mistake.

The Great Smoky Mountains are majestic, with plush green forests through the rolling hills and mountain peaks. Flowing rivers and waterfalls add to the ambiance and the persistent misty haze just adds to the mystical experience. There’s a lot to cover in GSMNP so I will break things down in a more digestible way, to meet varying objectives and levels of adventure.

BEST SCENIC DRIVES AND ATTRACTIONS IN GSMNP

We like to balance our hiking days with low effort (big payoff) adventures. GSMNP provides many opportunities for beautiful drives with many scenic spots and hidden treasures along the way.

Newfoundland Gap Road (US-441)

Stretching 33 miles from Gatlinburg to Cherokee, Newfoundland Gap Road is the main thoroughfare through GSMNP, so you will likely drive this road often if you spend any time in the park. It’s a beautiful drive, climbing 3,600 feet from the Tennessee side and then descending 3,000 feet on the North Carolina side. There are plenty of pullouts and overlooks along the way, with the popular Newfoundland Gap Overlook at the highest point along the state border. Many trailheads for hiking and nature trails, with minimal parking, can be accessed right along the road as well. As you drive through the park the terrain varies from classic Smoky Mountain vistas to tranquil tree canopies along flowing rivers. It’s not uncommon to see deer and elk along the road, especially early and late in the day, so caution is advised. The drive is suitable for RV’s with proper caution, as there are a few tight switchbacks. This road is also the reason that there is no park entrance fee at GSMNP. US-441 has historically been a main route between Tennessee and North Carolina, so when landowners sold their property to the NPS, the deed stated that there will never be a toll on this road. A park entrance fee would be deemed a toll. But fear not, GSMNP does charge a “parking fee” required for anyone parking in the park for more than 15 minutes.

TIP: Although Newfoundland Gap Overlook is worth stopping at, the views are somewhat obstructed from this location. We found the best overlook views are just down the road to the south from Newfoundland Gap. Look for two seperate pullouts with a walkway that extends from each paralleling the road. Get your camera ready!

Little River Road and Cades Cove

Cades Cove is an 11 mile one-way loop road at the end of Little River Road, known for great wildlife viewing opportunities. You should budget sufficient time to drive this loop because the traffic moves slow, especially when wildlife is present. The combination of tree cover, open meadows and water, is the perfect habitat for wildlife. We saw a mamma bear sleeping on a large hollowed out tree right above the road, with her cubs. You might also want to stop at some of the many historical structures located along the loop.

There are several stops along the way to Cades Cove on Little River Road including the Elkmont Historic District. Just past the campground are restored structures of a once logging community turned vacation resort community, now coined “Daisy Town”. Several of the old homes have been restored and are available to walk through. If you adventure down the adjacent Little River Trail (wide gravel path) you can see remnants of old structures off in the woods and along the river. At approximately 200 yards down the trail, and at a path to the right, are more structures and a “troll bridge”, one of the many GSMNP hidden treasures.

Further down Little River Road are two additional roadside attractions, the first being The Sinks, a flume in the river formed by loggers using dynamite in the late 1800s to clear a logjam. There’s a small parking area with access to a viewpoint for this picturesque spot. The second attraction is Meigs Falls. Look for a parking area paralleling the road, a little ways down from The Sinks. The waterfall is off in the distance through the trees along an intersecting creek. It is best seen in the afternoon when the lighting is optimal.

TIP: My one complaint about GSMNP is a lack of signage in the park. It is easy to drive right past many of the scenic points without even knowing they are there. Keep your eyes open for small parking areas, use the park maps and resources such as this blog to help. And if you’re inclined to do so, provide a friendly suggestion to a park ranger about the need for better signage. You can also download an offline version of the park map from the NPS app.

Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail

This is another outstanding scenic drive through GSMNP, accessible right from Gatlinburg. The 5.5 mile one-way loop travels through deep forest with the sound of water cascading along the adjacent creek. This is the location for several great hiking trails in the park and historic sites such as the Ogle homestead and Tub Mill (grist mill). Parking for trails is extremely limited so it’s best to get an early start. Another spot along the way worth a quick stop is The Place of a Thousand Drips, an intricate lacework of several small waterfalls combined into a larger picturesque feature.

Kuwohi (Clingmans Dome)

Formerly known as Clingmans Dome, Kuwohi is an observation tower at the highest peak of the Great Smoky Mountains, standing at 6,643 feet. At the end of Kuwohi Road is a large parking area where you can get on the 1/2 mile paved pathway to the observation tower. It’s a bit of a steep trek but the views are well worth it and the tower itself is pretty incredible, perched on the state line between Tennessee and North Carolina.

We were there on a cold morning and were able to witness the unusual “rime ice” that is common there. The ice forms on trees instantly due to moisture from passing clouds. The trees are literally inside a cold cloud, which is perfect for rime ice formation.

If you’re in the mood for another hidden treasure, as you pull onto Kuwohi Road off of Newfoundland Gap Road you will see a parking area on the right big enough for one car. If you park there and walk up the road to the stone guardrail you will see a rugged pathway that goes down the embankment. This will take you to the Thomas Divide Tunnel, an original structure of the park. The moss covered tunnel makes for a good photo opp on the way to Clingmans Dome.

“Road to Nowhere Tunnel“

In an effort to provide access to cemeteries and communities that were cut off when Fontana Lake was created, the National Park Service started to build another road which was to continue through the Smokies and reconnect these communities. The road was completed to a point where a tunnel was built in the 1940s and 1950s and then stopped due to environmental concerns. After years of legal battles a financial settlement was eventually reached with Swain County. Today, a beautiful journey down Lakeview Drive from Bryson City leads you to a parking area just before the tunnel. From there, you can walk through the tunnel (bring a flashlight) to the other side where there are additional hiking trails if you so choose. I’ve heard some stories of the tunnel being haunted but we had no such paranormal experiences ourselves.

Great Smoky Mountains Railroad

Although we did not do the train ride, we understand it is a great trip. The historic steam engine leaves from Bryson City and travels through the picturesque countryside of the Great Smoky Mountains, to many areas not accessible by car. We will come back and do this another time.

HIKING IN GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK

There are endless hiking opportunities in GSMNP at levels for varied hiking abilities. However, you are in the mountains here and at least moderate elevation change on these trails is common. Remember, what goes down, must come back up. Here’s an overview of our favorites hikes during our visit.

Deep Creek Waterfall loop

A trail with three waterfalls in a national park, only 10 minutes from our campground! Well, that’s a no-brainer. The trail is under 3 miles but has a fair amount of ups and downs. Along the way you get to see three really nice falls: Juneywhank, Tom Branch and Indian Creek. If you’re staying in the Bryson City area, this is a must do hike.

Abrams Falls

This was one of our favorite hikes, located at the midpoint of the Cades Cove loop. It’s a moderately difficult trail, that calls for 5 miles but we were closer to 6 miles. The trail is scenic with several log bridge river crossings taking you to a huge payoff at the end with an amazing waterfall and large water pool. This is also an area of the park where you are likely to see wildlife. We saw a black bear climbing in a tree a safe distance away and a deer stopping for a drink in the river.

Alum Cave

This very popular trail is located right off Newfoundland Gap Road so if you want to get a parking spot close to the trailhead, I recommend getting to the trail by 7am. The Alum Cave Bluff Trail can be taken to the cave (actually a very dramatic rock outcropping) for a 5 mile hike or continue to Peregrine Peak for an 11 mile hike. Even if hiking just to the cave, there is a lot of attitude gain but I found it to be quite enjoyable. The “cave” is very awe inspiring and offers some opportunity to explore, however, along the way is an equally cool spot called Arch Rock where the trail goes down and through a rock structure.

Twin Creeks

This 4.5 mile trail is located on the way to Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail. Our objective for this trail was to see the House of Fairies, a historic stone structure covered in moss. Unfortunately we were unable to locate it but found out later it is located on a short spur trail behind the park administration building (former Twin Creeks Science Center). The somewhat overgrown trail ends at a nature loop before returning. This is the the area where the aforementioned Ogle homestead and Tub Mill is located. In retrospect, it would have been a better choice to just park at the other end of the trail and explore the historical structures and save our energy for one of the other trails along the loop road.

Charlies Bunion

This is another great GSMNP hike which traverses the Appalachian Trail to an amazing viewpoint. The 8+ mile trail gains around 1,900 feet of elevation and involved traversing over large rocks and tree roots, so it’s a pretty difficult hike. The reward is the best views that I’ve seen in the park at this crazy rocky area at the point. If you so dare, you can climb out on the rocks or take a hidden trail (just past the Charlies Bunion sign) to the upper rock area for an even better vantage point. Put this one on your bucket list!

ADDITIONAL THINGS TO DO IN THE AREA

You can spend weeks just exploring the national park but the area has so much more to offer that you might just need to extend your stay. What’s most accessible will depend on where you’re staying. The Gatlinburg area certainly has many opportunities for family fun, but south of the park provides easy access to many additional adventure.

Drive the Blue Ridge Parkway

The Blue Ridge Parkways meanders 469 miles along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains from Shenandoah National Park in Virginia to Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina. A trip to GSMNP would not be complete without driving some of the southern portions of the parkway. We spent a day traveling about 60 miles of the parkway, stopping at several overlooks along the way such as Richland Balsam Overlook, the highest point on the parkway. We also stopped to take in a couple short hikes to stretch our legs. The Devil’s Courthouse overlook at Mile Post (MP) 422.4 has a short trail to a beautiful scenic point where you can often see peregrine falcons. Graveyard Fields Loop Trail at MP 418.8 is a great stop to see an amazing waterfall and take a pleasant hike. Soco Falls is another great spot at the MP 455.7 and Highway 19 interchange. A short but steep trail takes you to a viewpoint of this pretty significant waterfall and the option to scramble to the bottom. The Blue Ridge Parkway has a lot to offer and makes for a scenic and relaxing day. We will be exploring much more of the parkway over the next couple of months.

Visit Wheels Through Time Motorcycle Museum

This motorcycle museum in nearby Maggie Valley North Carolina has an amazing collection of over 300 rare american made motorcycles. The museum is a family run business operating as a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization and is so much more than just an amazing collection of motorcycles, it’s a journey through history told through the eyes of two-wheeled motorized machines. The owner and staff have an exorbitant historical knowledge of these machines and the stories behind them. Most of the bikes in the museum run and they will often crank them up for you. Whether you’re a motorcycle enthusiast or not, you’re sure to enjoy the experience at this museum. Maggie Valley is a cool little town that always seems to have something going on, so check into that as well.

Spend a day in Gatlinburg

Gatlinburg is a big tourist town so be prepared for the mayhem and to come out with your wallet a little lighter. If you are traveling with kids this is the place to be but there is something for everyone here. We loved the Anakeesta adventure park with their treetop skywalk and mountain coasters among many other fun attractions for all ages. There’s also many adult activities in Gatlinburg such as wine and moonshine tasting at establishments such as the Ole Smoky Distillery, the first federally licensed still in Tennessee. If you haven’t done moonshine tasting before, you will be in for a unique treat! If you’re in the mood for some food, drinks or live entertainment, check out Jason Aldean’s place or Blake Shelton’s Ole Red honky tonk.

Have some fun in Bryson City and Cherokee

If you’re staying in Bryson City you will escape the craziness of Gatlinburg in exchange for a small town feel along the river. Oh, it tends to get crowded here in the summer months as well when all the “river rats” show up but in April it was pretty nice. The town has many good places to eat and drink and venues with live entertainment. We enjoyed sitting out on the upper deck at Mountain Layers Brewing, listening to live music and enjoying some food from The Rice Wagon food truck parked out back. For some good Mexican food try 4 Queens Mexican Grill. Everett Street Diner is another good casual place for breakfast and lunch. Anthony’s is a great place for good pizza, right across from the train depot. And Bryson City Brewing is the happening place on the weekends with their large outside patio and stages for live music. If you’re in the mood for some wine tasting, Deep Creek Winery is a small family owned winery out on the edge of town up on a hilltop. Sit on their back patio with a glass and enjoy the view! You certainly do not want to miss Darnell Farms, a 100 acre family farm located right on the Tuckasegee River. Pick up some fresh strawberries or just hang out along the river and enjoy one of their famous Whips.

In Cherokee you can learn about Cherokee culture in the Museum of the Cherokee People. The museum was going through a transition phase when we visited, as they were rethinking how they continue to convey their story. It should be interesting to revisit the museum in the future and see how it has changed. When you’re done at the museum, step across the street to Qualla Arts and Crafts, showcasing artifacts from over 300 Cherokee artists and crafters. If you have a desire to take home an $800 weaved basket, this is the place! For food options in Cherokee, we can recommend Granny’s Kitchen for inexpensive home cooking buffet and Native Brews where we had a very enjoyable meal sitting outside on their patio.

Explore the Nantahala National Forest

The national forest borders the southern edge of the national park and has a lot to explore. Highway 74 is a great drive from Bryson City through the Nantahala Gorge. “Gorge” may be overstating the expectations, but it is a nice drive with a great stop along the way at Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC). This place has been around since 1972, catering to outdoor enthusiasts. It’s a spot for whitewater rafting trips, competition paddling and a stop for Appalachian Trail thru hikers to take a break and get a good meal. The freestyle canoe course is right there along the river and has been home to 23 Olympians, including 2 gold medalists. We enjoyed watching some of the folks training on the course and indulging in a great meal on the river at River’s End Restaurant.

Fontana Lake is another great spot to visit. The drive down the mountain provides many dramatic overlooks of the lake and the dam area provides a closer look. Speaking of the dam, this structure which you are able to get up close to, is a fascinating engineering marvel. And while you’re in the area, the Tapoco Lodge and Tavern is a great place to stop for a good meal out on the patio overlooking the rustling river below. Tapoco is also the starting point of the Tail of the Dragon, one of the most intense and technically demanding stretches of road in the country (think 318 turns in 11 miles). Somehow our Jeep seemed like it wouldn’t be the appropriate vehicle to drive on this road, mixed in with all the motorcycles and sports cars, but I was tempted.

WRAPPING IT UP

Your experience in GSMNP will significantly depend on when you visit and where you stay. Being the busiest national park in the country, I can’t imagine how it would be in peak season (and don’t want to know). Visiting in April was perfect, with mild weather and less crowds. We would like to experience it in the autumn sometime as well. Setting up basecamp in Bryson City was the right decision for us, as we loved the vibe of the small towns and were pleased by just how much it opened up other opportunities. However, if amusement parks and Ripley’s attractions are your cup of tea, you might want to stay in the Gatlinburg area. Either way, once you’re inside the park the magic of the Smokies will consume you and you might want to stay just a little bit longer.

We hope this blog was helpful in planning a trip to GSMNP, or at least was an inspiring read. Be sure to check out all of our pictures and feel free to leave us a comment.