Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), or “Rocky” as the locals call it, is the 36th national park we have visited within the past four years. It amazes me how all these national parks are so beautiful, yet uniquely different, from one another, and Rocky is no exception to that. What makes Rocky so unique from the others is the insanely high altitude of the park.

Sequoia National Park and Mount Rainier National Park are the two highest altitude parks in the continental US with peaks reaching 14,505′ and 14,410′ respectively. Rocky is third on the list with Longs Peak reaching an altitude of 14,259′. However, the incredible difference lies in the accessibility with roads in these parks. The main road, and highest continually paved road in the United States, in Rocky is Trail Ridge Road, traversing 48 miles through the park and reaching an altitude of 12,183′. In comparison, the roads in Sequoia and Mount Rainier only get up to 7,600′ and 6,400′ respectively. Think about that. Hiking to high alpine tundra areas in Sequoia and Mount Rainier requires multi-day backpacking adventures climbing some 5,000 feet in elevation. Similar areas in Rocky can be explored through moderate day hikes. This brings a whole new world much closer for many people who may have never experienced such things.

We spent the peak autumn season in Rocky setting up base camp in Estes Park at Elk Meadow RV Resort, just outside the Beaver Meadows park entrance. This made it very convenient for our 30-day visit where we hiked 21 trails, exploring 75 miles of this amazing national park during (in my opinion) the perfect time of year. But hiking isn’t the only way to enjoy this park, those amazing park roads offer incredible views and the town of Estes Park has so much to offer.

Rocky has something for everyone and a great place to start is driving Trail Ridge Road. It can be an intimidating drive for some, but it is a truly incredible experience being on a well-maintained road at that altitude with amazing views along the entire 48 miles from Estes Park to Grand Lake on the west side of the park. There are many pull-outs along the way and access to hiking trails. At the summit is the Alpine Visitor Center, the highest elevation visitor center in the National Park System. It’s also the nicest one we have been to with a good cafe, gift shops and more incredible mountain views. Timed entry reservations are required to enter the park between the hours of 9am and 2pm.

The Bear Lake Road corridor is one of the most popular parts of the park due to many of the best hiking trails located in this area. The road intersects Trail Ridge Road on the east side of the park, so it is easily accessible from Estes Park. Many people go to the Moraine Park meadow and the adjacent Beaver Meadow to see elk in the morning and early evening, especially during rutting season. Please note that Bear Lake has a separate timed entry reservation from the rest of the park.

The other driving experience in the park is Old Fall River Road, which was entirely hand built, opening in 1920 as the first auto route in Rocky offering access to the park’s high country. The 11-mile one-way gravel road is a beautiful and unique driving experience with many switchbacks and a narrow shelf with steep drop-offs.

Although the driving experiences are incredible in Rocky, our goal was to get beyond the pavement and explore many of the hiking trails, and many we did. I couldn’t possibly cover all 21 trails we hiked within this blog, but I will summarize some of our favorites that anyone visiting Rocky should consider. One thing to keep in mind is that any hiking in Rocky is typically more difficult due to the altitude. Heck, we ran out of breath walking the dogs!

HARD TRAILS

Sky Pond was on the top of my Rocky hiking bucket list and it did not disappoint. This 9.75-mile trail climbs about 1,800′ and has a little bit of everything. Starting out at 5:30am in the dark made it even more interesting. After a pretty mild start it becomes increasingly more difficult after the first lake (The Loch) when you have to climb along the edge of a waterfall to reach the top tier and two additional lakes. The views just keep getting better and better until you find yourself at the edge of Sky Pond looking across at Taylor Glacier (queue mic drop).

Mount Ida provides an opportunity to summit a 12,874′ mountain peak while traversing along the continental divide. My initial goal was to make it to the saddle, about 1 1/2 miles from the summit and see how I felt. As I stood at the bottom of the saddle a vision of a wide German smile with a head nodding like a bobblehead came to me. The voice said, in a rhetorical tone, “are we climbing to the summit, Brian”. I don’t know if it was inspiration or fear that got me to the top, but I made it. The views up top were epic, on a perfectly clear day. Considering the distance (10 miles), terrain, 2,415′ climb and altitude, this was probably the most difficult hike I’ve done – but well worth it.

MODERATE TRAILS

Nymph, Dream and Emerald Lakes can be combined into one hike and I can’t think of a hike with more bang for the buck. It seems like every corner you come around there is another, and more beautiful, mountain lake. If you add in the (slightly more difficult) spur trail for Haiyaha Lake, the total hiking distance is 5 miles with a moderate elevation gain. This should be on anyone’s hiking list visiting Rocky.

Mills Lake uses the same initial Glacier Gorge Trail as Sky Pond and can be combined with that or done as a separate trail as we did. You pass by Alberta Falls and (in the autumn) have beautiful fall colors along the way, as you make it to, yet another, amazing lake. It’s such a great place to sit on the rocks and have some lunch away from the crowds. The trail is approximately 6 miles with a moderate climb.

Ouzel Falls via the Wild Basin Trail is in a remote southern area of the park and provides a completely different experience. Rather than high elevation mountain peaks and lakes, this trail meanders along a river through the woods. There are rapids, waterfalls and cascades along the entire trail with the soundtrack of rushing water as you walk through the golden aspen trees. When you reach the bridge for Ouzel Falls, make sure you take the short scramble to the base of the falls (some people miss this). This trail is similar in distance and difficulty as the other moderate hikes mentioned.

EASY TRAILS

Sprague Lake is one of many “gotado’s” in Rocky. The short trail encircles the gorgeous lake where elk and moose can often be seen (along with a lot of people). On our visit, there were three cow elk walking across the lake after they were done crashing a wedding taking place along the shoreline. I guess one of those “only in Rocky” experiences.

Bear Lake, at the very end of Bear Lake Road, is probably the most notable spot in Rocky so try to avoid this at peak times of the day. It’s a beautiful spot with another trail that encircles the lake, albeit more wooded than Sprague Lake. You can combine this short trail with other trails in the area or make it a destination of its own.

Coyote Valley gets mentioned here as an example of what the quieter west side of the park has to offer. This short trail winds along a meadow and creek on the edge of a tree line. As we came around a corner, we encountered a large moose hanging out in the creek. He was quick to make it known that this was “his” territory, even moving towards us at one point. We respected his wishes to stay back and observed from a safe distance.

Lily Lake is outside of the park entrance just off of Highway 7. It’s a quick stop for another gorgeous Rocky lake trail with an amazing mountain backdrop. As with Bear and Sprague lakes, this is another Rocky “gotado”.

Estes Park is a busy town but quite enjoyable. There always seems to be something going on in Bond Park, in the center of town. We attended a couple of great festivals during our stay. The town offers plenty of shopping, art galleries and good places to eat such as Notchtop Bakery & Cafe for breakfast or lunch. If you’re looking for that special date night spot (Shannon’s birthday dinner) try Twin Oaks Steakhouse with great food and spectacular views (recommended to make a reservation). And don’t miss The Spice Rack for some of the best baked goods and coffee that you will ever savor!

On the edge of town is the famous 1909 Stanley Hotel, the inspiration for Stephen King’s The Shining. The grounds and public areas of the hotel can be self-toured but consider taking one of the guided tours to see more of the hotel and learn some of the dark secrets of its history.

While you’re visiting Rocky, it’s well worth exploring some of the broader areas of this region of Colorado. For a nice drive, especially in the autumn, Devils Gulch Road and the Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway offers a great relaxing way to see the area. When traveling on Highway 7, as part of Peak to Peak, be sure to stop at Chapel on the Rock, an amazing church built on top of a large rock. While there, stop at the Camp St. Malo visitor center and cafe for a snack and cup of coffee and to learn more about the history of this place.

A great destination would not be complete for us without getting the Jeep tires a little dirty on some trails. Although this area is no San Juan Mountain off-road adventure, we did find some fun trails to explore. In particular, the off-road trails of Pole Hill, Panorama Peak and Solitude Creek, which are just minutes from Estes Park, made for a really enjoyable day. On the other hand, our adventure to Storm Mountain lived up to its name, so we had to turn around as the trail was getting very tough near the top. Another really cool place we stumbled on was Left Hand Reservoir Road in Brainard Lake Recreation Area. Although the hike we wanted to do there required advanced reservations (which we did not have) the off-road trail was open and offered a great drive through the forest to a beautiful reservoir up over 10,000 feet in the mountains.

Let’s answer some of the common questions that people ask about Rocky Mountain National Park:

Is it best to stay in Estes Park or Grand Lake? Although we can’t directly comment on staying in Grand Lake, after being here for a month, I could not see staying anywhere other than Estes Park and effectively experiencing the park in the way we did. Plus Estes Park has so much to offer in itself.

Are timed entry reservations required? Yes, there is a “Timed Entry” that gets you into the entire park except Bear Lake for the hours of 9am to 2pm and a “Timed Entry +” that includes the entire park plus Bear Lake for the hours of 5am to 6pm. Outside of these hours, timed entry is not required.

How do you get around in the park? Mostly driving however, the Bear Lake corridor does have a (free) bus service and Park and Ride lot. Many of the smaller areas fill up quickly in the popular Bear Lake corridor, so the bus is a good option.

Is Estes Park an expensive place to stay? Yes, it is. RV parks are expensive, and most restaurants are overpriced, similar to other resort areas. You’re paying for location.

What’s the best time of year to visit Rocky? We love the shoulder seasons with milder weather and less crowds. September was awesome in Rocky with perfect weather and amazing fall color complements the gold aspen glow. Keep in mind, due to the high altitude, Trail Ridge Road often closes due to weather, especially in the colder months.

What’s the weather like there? Obviously, it varies greatly by season, but keep in mind you have an altitude variation of some 4,000 feet or more between Estes Park and the higher areas in the park. It’s best to dress in layers any time of year and watch for quickly changing weather. Thunderstorms are very common in the afternoons so plan your hikes accordingly.

Is there a lot of wildlife in the area? Yes, Elk are everywhere, even in the city streets. Moose can be seen as well, but they aren’t as plentiful, and they keep a much lower profile then the elk. We found that moose or more prevalent on the west side of the park. There are black bear in the park as well, but they are seldom seen and don’t present a particular risk to people. However, all of these animals are wild and unpredictable. You should always respect wildlife and keep your distance. This is their home, you’re just visiting.

From someone who has only visited the Colorado Rockies for wintertime ski trips, this was a whole new experience. There is magnificent beauty in every way you turn. We saw the mountainsides transform with veins of golden aspens, sometimes so bright they were blinding. We were there for the first significant snow up in the higher elevations and woke up to a whole new view of snowcapped mountains. Elk were everywhere during the height of rutting season as the annual control of herds were being established. There’s something magical about hearing a bull elk bugle and a certain peace and excitement of seeing wildlife when you’re hiking in their world. As you respect their space you get the sense that they are respecting yours.

I can go on and on about the other amazing hikes we did as we explored this magnificent national park, but this is already becoming a long read so feel free to reach out to us for more details or maybe we will cross paths in a national park down the road a piece. Until then, check out our amazing pictures from Rocky.